Those are cam and crank sensor codes. I would replace the crank sensor first.
They are common to fail when they get hot. They also share the same voltage source so a bad crank could also trigger a cam code. Cam sensors are not common on the magnum engines

 

i figured. I hope this fixes my problems. But i don't get how it'd make reverse work again haha

 

Better to clean and apply dielectric grease to the connectors first before replacing them.

 

I think im going to just replace it because it keeps stumbling. I just hope this fixes my problem with it stalling in reverse

 

You should work on your troubleshooting skills rather than just replacing parts for the sake of replacing them. Oh well, it's your wallet. Check out my "Overheating" thread. People told me to just barrel in there and replace the head gaskets. #1, that's a bitch, and #2) the symptoms didn't match the problem. In the end, it was the waterpump that was the issue. You have to learn how to think these things through.

 

interesting your telling me not to replace the crankshaft sensor when its throwing codes for it. Obviously its failed once, and why should i trust it to not fail again. I mean if its obvious its just corroded or so, then yeah i won't replace it, but it does have a magnet in it or something, so i do see how it could eventually wear out.

 

When I rebuilt my engine and reassembled everything I got the Crankshaft Sensor code as well. I pulled it from the distributor, cleaned everything on it as well as the connector on the main harness, applied di-electric grease, and reinstalled.

Voila -- no more problems.

How can a magnet wear out when nothing is making contact?

I'm trying to help, but if you want to argue, then waste your money rather than trying to solve a problem by just replacing everything left and right.

 

im not trying to aruge, im just wondering why you'd think it wasn't that if it threw the code for it.

Also, i think you might be thinking of the cam shaft sensor, thats inside the distributor. But, I don't know, i can't even locate the crankshaft one myself. But the trucks got 180k on it, and its never been changed from what i was told.

 

X2^
check your plenum like i said earlier
when the oil is heating up in the intake, it is thinning out and and being sucked into the engine and making it run like crap.
very simple to check

also could be the Sync Signal is out of spec.
i dont think you can check that with a standard scan tool
u would have to have the DRB to see it
its the electronic "matching" and sync of the timing comparison between crank and cam sensor - since it is electronically controlled and slightly changes - but cant take but so much... it wont set a code for just this (sync) normally it would just run like crap and it CAN set codes for cam and crank sensors
-had one come in for running like crap, he said he had replaced the heads, and didnt know why it was runnning like it was.
=checked sync - it was like 15-20 degrees off, - rotated distributor(it was left loose)
sent on his way

it still couild be the crank sensor; they just go bad-no real reason- i'd say heat gets to them internally- torque converters do get pretty hot... - located on bellhousing of tranny, back of engine, drops into bellhousing, surrounded by a rubber gromnet, bolted-holding it down - 2 bolts, pita to get to sort of unless you have a body lift

there is a thread somewhere on all details

i can help alot with the codes and more
i need the last 8 of your VIN
PM me if u want

 

just FYI : you can check the synch with a good old Snap-On 2500.