Rebuilding an auto myself
#41
09-12-2007, 07:06 PM
RE: Rebuilding an auto myself
ORIGINAL: sony224422
im not trying to aruge, im just wondering why you'd think it wasn't that if it threw the code for it.
Also, i think you might be thinking of the cam shaft sensor, thats inside the distributor. But, I don't know, i can't even locate the crankshaft one myself. But the trucks got 180k on it, and its never been changed from what i was told.
im not trying to aruge, im just wondering why you'd think it wasn't that if it threw the code for it.
Also, i think you might be thinking of the cam shaft sensor, thats inside the distributor. But, I don't know, i can't even locate the crankshaft one myself. But the trucks got 180k on it, and its never been changed from what i was told.
I'm trying to tell you to think this stuff through and try simple approaches first before just throwing money at problems. Sensor throws a code? OK, check all connections first. The IAC is known to cause problems, 90% of the time can be remedied by pulling it and cleaning it with carb cleaner.
The camshaft sensor is located on the top, right side of the transmission. IIRC, it is two 14mm bolts that holds it place and they are a bitch to remove. Get inside of your engine bay and grope around back there and you'll find it. Use a mirror if possible. Seriously, pull that thing out and give it a good cleaning. It's a magnet. The damned thing CAN'T go bad unless something got inside of the transmission and broke the sensor.
#42
09-12-2007, 11:25 PM
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#43
09-13-2007, 02:22 AM
RE: Rebuilding an auto myself
ORIGINAL: VWandDodge
It's a magnet. The damned thing CAN'T go bad unless something got inside of the transmission and broke the sensor.
It's a magnet. The damned thing CAN'T go bad unless something got inside of the transmission and broke the sensor.
True there are no moving parts to the sensor like a TPS but there is more to it than just a magnet with a wire sticking out of it. These are hall-effect sensors they also have (simple) electronic semi conductors that can fail. It doesn't have to be physically broken to fail.
Your right to convince him to try to diagnose rather than "shotgun" parts and guess but he is not a professional technician.
So he has a crank sensor code, the symptoms fit, the sensor isn't really expensive or hard to change, and it's a commonly failed part.
I doubt he has a lab scope to check the signal anyway...
So at this point barring an obvious problem somewhere else replacing the crank sensor seems like a pretty good idea. I would if it was my truck given the situation.
Sony, If the crank sensor and wires are cover in oil the chances the sensor are bad is even greater
#44
09-13-2007, 03:22 AM
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#45
09-13-2007, 08:59 AM
RE: Rebuilding an auto myself
ORIGINAL: rabbler
I hate to burst your bubble but crank sensors fail all the time.
True there are no moving parts to the sensor like a TPS but there is more to it than just a magnet with a wire sticking out of it. These are hall-effect sensors they also have (simple) electronic semi conductors that can fail. It doesn't have to be physically broken to fail.
Your right to convince him to try to diagnose rather than "shotgun" parts and guess but he is not a professional technician.
So he has a crank sensor code, the symptoms fit, the sensor isn't really expensive or hard to change, and it's a commonly failed part.
I doubt he has a lab scope to check the signal anyway...
So at this point barring an obvious problem somewhere else replacing the crank sensor seems like a pretty good idea. I would if it was my truck given the situation.
Sony, If the crank sensor and wires are cover in oil the chances the sensor are bad is even greater
ORIGINAL: VWandDodge
It's a magnet. The damned thing CAN'T go bad unless something got inside of the transmission and broke the sensor.
It's a magnet. The damned thing CAN'T go bad unless something got inside of the transmission and broke the sensor.
True there are no moving parts to the sensor like a TPS but there is more to it than just a magnet with a wire sticking out of it. These are hall-effect sensors they also have (simple) electronic semi conductors that can fail. It doesn't have to be physically broken to fail.
Your right to convince him to try to diagnose rather than "shotgun" parts and guess but he is not a professional technician.
So he has a crank sensor code, the symptoms fit, the sensor isn't really expensive or hard to change, and it's a commonly failed part.
I doubt he has a lab scope to check the signal anyway...
So at this point barring an obvious problem somewhere else replacing the crank sensor seems like a pretty good idea. I would if it was my truck given the situation.
Sony, If the crank sensor and wires are cover in oil the chances the sensor are bad is even greater
#49
09-14-2007, 06:36 PM
