I've been meaning to post this for a few weeks, but just haven't gotten around to it. Attached are some pics of the end-product of about 15 hours spent in my garage installing a 3" Skyjacker suspension lift as well as some amateur mechanic lessons learned.

First, the lessons learned:
1. I would not recommend attempting this project without air tools. My impact wrench and cutting wheel were used in most steps during the diassembly process and in several during reassembly. Without the air tools, the 15 hours easily would have been 20+ and the forearm ache would have been severe. Just my opinion...
2. It is not necessary to remove the upper end of the track bar from the frame if you have spring compressors. I found a set of spring compressors and squeezed my springs down a few inches and was able to install the new springs with the track bar still attached.
3. Watch the aftermarket exhaust routing when you add a leaf. My truck now sits a little higher and I get a little rub from my overload (flat) leaf on my 3" exhausts when the suspension compresses. Need to do a little pipe bending...
4. Front end took 12 hours, rear end took 3 hours. Once you finish the front, it's a cake walk doing the back.

Here are some pics.
1. New profile.
2. New wheel well clearance with 265/70R16s - roughly 10.5" from tread to top of wheel well. Will be installing 285/75R16s very soon.
3. New front suspension components: shock, spring, lower suspension link.
4. New leaf in the back.


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nice.

 

nice , good job , now do the upper control arms talking about a PITA ...

 

Get used to pulling those front arms. The front bushings are soft and you'll replace them about every 24k miles. It's not bad though and they are about $65 for the set.

 

Now to see it with the right tires underneath! I'm thinking of the same system 'cause I still want some roadability.

 

Looks good, nice work. It'll look really good with the bigger tire.

Couple of comments though:
-I don't recommend anyone use a spring compressor. They are relly not very safe, but mainly because they are just not needed. With the shock disconnected, all you need to do is remove the two nuts (one on each side) on the top of the sway bar links, and you get more then enough droop too install 3" coils. If it doesn't quite droop enough, just jack the axle back up a little on the opposite side, and you get all the room you need.

-I wish I had air tools, would have made it much easier, but I wouldn't recommend people not do this just because they don't have air tools. It is totoally doable without them. I installed an AAL in the rear and a 2" lift in the front, then later a 3" lift in the front, then new control arms (top and bottom) after that. No air tools. The only tool I think is a must have is a good qaulity torque wrench though. Otherwise, all you need is a good socket set, and a few extensions of various sizes, and that's about it.

-You need new u-bolts though. First, it is never a good idea to reuse them, and secondly you can see in the picture that the bolts are barely poking out beyond the nut. I wouldn't run it like that for very long - get some longer u-bolts made. Most any suspension shop can custom bend whatever you need, and it is pretty inexpensive. Or I think it is Fabtech that sells longer u-bolt kit for our trucks.

-Oh, and as padodgeram mentioned, have fun when you decide to do the upper control arms. The bottoms a piece of cake by comparison.

 

Anybody every tried the bushings made by energy suspensions? Are they really any better/longer lasting?

 

I've used them in a few vehicles. Never had any problems.
My ProComp lift uses Urethane bushings (don't know where they are sourced from) and are still fine 9 yrs later.