aight

My dad has a 1998 Ram 1500 sport 5.9 2wd

he would like to mess around with some performance mods, but not and big expensive ones

what are some good bolt ons that wont break the wallet, but give some performance?

are there any good performance chips, pullys, CAI, ect?

 

welcome to DF...

March makes a pulley set for $50 bux, (Summitracing.com), K&N makes a CAI setup as do a few others. Guys here have recently started using the 14" round filter on top of the TB. here are some other options, some cheep, some not so cheep...

52mm Fastman TB ($220)
Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers ($?)
Gibson headers ($400+)
single or dual out (limit the duals to 2.25" for mildly modded truck) flowmaster exhaust kit ($250 or so)

2 really cheep mods which end up being free...
Crank sensor mod (slot the mounting holes and re-position the sensor to add timing)
TPS mod... drill out the rivits and set the idle voltage from the tps to .7~.75 volts. (improves throttle response)

 

I DONT HAVE MUCH DONE TO MY TRUCK
(COMPARED TO OTHERS IN DODGE FORUM)

BUT IT IS FAST ENOUGH TO SMOKE A DURAMAX
HERE IS MY LIST OF MODS

HYPERTECH PROGRAMMER
PULLEYS
ELECTRIC FANS
AIRAID INTAKE
THROTTLE BODY SPACER '
HIGH FLOW CAT
FLOW MASTER WITH 2.5 PIPES TO THE BACK (NOT TRUE DUALS )
91 GAS


IM SURE I FORGOT SOMETHING
BUT I AM SUPER HAPPY WITH THE MODSTHEY ALL WORK GREAT TOGETHER
AND THE TRUCKIS VERY DEEP SOUNDING AND VERY LOUD AT IDLE

MY NEIGHBORS DO NOT LIKE ME

 

you mean Duratrash
haha

 

haha my neighbors hate me too. Might as well pull that spacer off and sell it, its been proven it does NOTHIN for our trucks...

 

Find some Mopar Performance cylinder head intake port
templates on eBay and port your intakes and exhausts to fit
the template.

Go back with a thinner 0.030 inch Cometic head gasket set
after carefully inspecting the ridges between intake and exhaust valve seats for cross-cracks.

Also consider reading the last chapter of
"How to Build Big-Inch Mopar Smallblocks"
on cooling improvements, and consider enlarging the rear-most coolant passages from block up into the cylinder head:

http://tinyurl.com/3644bd

Before taking advice from strangers
read up on the basics of how engine make power:

http://www.n2performance.com/archives.shtml

 

another thing to add... if you swap heads, get a set of ARP head bolts to replace the stockers... dont learn the hard way.

 

HEY HANK LONG TIME MAN BUT YOU HAVE ALWAYS COME THROUGH. I'M HAVING ONE HELLUVA TIME WITH THIS CEL CYLINDER #5 MISFIRE. I'VE TRIED REROUTING THE #5 SPK PLUG WIRE AND CHECKING THE SPK PLUG. EVERYTHING IS OK THERE. I'VE INSTALLED BOTH O2 SENSORS AND IAC VALVE. SOMEONE SUGGESTED A CLOGGED FUEL INJECTOR. ANY IDEAS? SORRY FOR INTRUDING ON THE HP QUESTION BUT IF THESE GUYS SUGGEST IT THEN GO WITH IT.

 

Pulling the fuel rail off and checking the little screens in the top of the injectors is a worthwhile thing to consider...be sure to have bought replacement o-rings for the injectors for the reinstall. Look at each tip hole for crud with a magnifying glass.

Have you looked inside the distributor to see that all is well with each of the cap posts for each cylinder...especially number 5?

Distributor bushing can wear out and cause the rotor to 'wander'
if the bushing is really sloppy.

Is the compression good in all cylinder including No.5 ?
Psi on the 4th stroke the gauge reads should have built up to be about 150 psi dry, or 160 psi or better if a squirt of motor oil is added to that cylinder through the sparkplug hole.

 

CAP AND ROTOR BRAND NEW HOWEVER WE ARE PLULLING INJECTORS AND FUEL RAIL THIS AFTERNOON. WILL CHECK COMPRESSION AS WELL AND GET BACK TO YOU.