Check Engine Light codes...
#1
Check Engine Light codes...
Howdy
I have a 95 Ram 2500 4x4, 46RH tranny with 360 gasser with 120,000 mi (tranny has 25,000 on rebuild)
I've recently gotten a check engine light with the following codes...
37 - tranny temp sensor voltage high... should i put a new one in?
27- Injector 6 or bank output stage does not respond properly.... Where do I start?
32- EGR solenoid Open/short detected- is there a way to check the EGR valve without a vacuum pump?
I have a 95 Ram 2500 4x4, 46RH tranny with 360 gasser with 120,000 mi (tranny has 25,000 on rebuild)
I've recently gotten a check engine light with the following codes...
37 - tranny temp sensor voltage high... should i put a new one in?
27- Injector 6 or bank output stage does not respond properly.... Where do I start?
32- EGR solenoid Open/short detected- is there a way to check the EGR valve without a vacuum pump?
#3
#4
RE: Check Engine Light codes...
Tranny temp sensor high voltage is code 41 (37 is AC clutch solenoid). But anyway, TTS are thermistors just like CTS. Test it with a DVOM. Here is the range chart:
Temperature ( degrees F)...............Resistance (Ohms)
30................................................ ..29k-36k
50................................................ ..18k-22k
70................................................ ..11k-13.5k
90................................................ ...7k-8.5k
110............................................... ..4.3k-5k
130............................................... ..2.8k-3.2k
150............................................... ..1.9k-2.3k
170............................................... ..1.2k-1.4k
190............................................... ..900-1k
210............................................... ..650-730
230............................................... ..480-540
250............................................... ..350-410
27 is injector 4 (29 is injector 6), and it is detecting a driver problem. Check for signal with a noid light. If there is signal, check resistance across injector terminals (10-16 ohms). If there's no signal, check for open or short betwen the injector connector and PCM connector terminal #13. If there's no problem with the injector or the wiring between the PCM and the injector, replace the PCM. If you have mice around, I'm bettin' they chewed a wire.
That code is for the EGR system. (solenoid circuit is code33) TheEGR solenoid is a simple electromagnet solenoid and can be tested with jumper wires. It's either a failed solenoid or a bad wire between solenoid and PCM. In my experience, it'llbe the solenoid. Often times, the hoses tha suspend it get weak and the solenoid comes to rest on the EGRtube, melting it.
Temperature ( degrees F)...............Resistance (Ohms)
30................................................ ..29k-36k
50................................................ ..18k-22k
70................................................ ..11k-13.5k
90................................................ ...7k-8.5k
110............................................... ..4.3k-5k
130............................................... ..2.8k-3.2k
150............................................... ..1.9k-2.3k
170............................................... ..1.2k-1.4k
190............................................... ..900-1k
210............................................... ..650-730
230............................................... ..480-540
250............................................... ..350-410
27- Injector 6 or bank output stage does not respond properly.... Where do I start?
32- EGR solenoid Open/short detected- is there a way to check the EGR valve without a vacuum pump?
#5
RE: Check Engine Light codes...
i did a couple of tests this morning.
Transmission temp sensor- i hooked up a DVOM and couldn't get any reading off of it.. assuming it might be bad (unless i'm not testing it correctly), i'll put a new one in. (they are $20)
I put a jumper on the EGR solenoid, It seemed to work properly... the hoses seem to be all clean and in good shape, no melting issues. The actual EGR valve looks pretty rusty from the outside, though if I unhook the wire harness from the solenoid and rev the engine, the pintle on the EGR valve will move up and down,
But, when i reapply the harness and do the same, the EGR valve pintle does not seem to move. Does this conclude anything?
Injector problem.. My error code report from my trusty Schucks Auto said that the injector #6 was not responding correctly (as opposed to #4 sixtysixdeuce...) by unhooking both 4 or 6 at the harness, it does drop the idle down.
The truck has been running great, it just keeps tripping these error codes.. thanks for your help.
Transmission temp sensor- i hooked up a DVOM and couldn't get any reading off of it.. assuming it might be bad (unless i'm not testing it correctly), i'll put a new one in. (they are $20)
I put a jumper on the EGR solenoid, It seemed to work properly... the hoses seem to be all clean and in good shape, no melting issues. The actual EGR valve looks pretty rusty from the outside, though if I unhook the wire harness from the solenoid and rev the engine, the pintle on the EGR valve will move up and down,
But, when i reapply the harness and do the same, the EGR valve pintle does not seem to move. Does this conclude anything?
Injector problem.. My error code report from my trusty Schucks Auto said that the injector #6 was not responding correctly (as opposed to #4 sixtysixdeuce...) by unhooking both 4 or 6 at the harness, it does drop the idle down.
The truck has been running great, it just keeps tripping these error codes.. thanks for your help.