Window problem
Lately, every once and a while my driver side power window will just stop working... And it would continue not to work for around 5 mins, sometimes less... It started this about 3 months ago... now, i tryed to roll down my window and it just went a fraction of an inch and just stoped... its been like that for the last hour.
Its not frozen shut with ice or anything as I had it down like 1 min before it killed...
The passenger side window works fine, and all of my switchs still light up so I dont think its the switch...
I found the little "silver box" in the fuze compartment that operates the power windows but there is only 2 connectors so it cant only control one window.
I havent looking in the fuse box under the hood, is there some sort of relay or somthing that can be replaced in there?
Im sure its not the window motor its self because it has never struggled to get up, mad noises ect.
Any Ideas?
Its not frozen shut with ice or anything as I had it down like 1 min before it killed...
The passenger side window works fine, and all of my switchs still light up so I dont think its the switch...
I found the little "silver box" in the fuze compartment that operates the power windows but there is only 2 connectors so it cant only control one window.
I havent looking in the fuse box under the hood, is there some sort of relay or somthing that can be replaced in there?
Im sure its not the window motor its self because it has never struggled to get up, mad noises ect.
Any Ideas?
The first thing I would check are your connections on the back side of the switch module (inside the door panel). Mine fell off and I could not operate anything from that side. I was really dredding working on it and I took the door panel off (I was installing new door speakers anyway), and found the harness not even connected......duh....I was glad thats all it was.
Anyway, if they are just a bit loose, they could do what your saying. It's cheap to check it.
Good luck to you.
Anyway, if they are just a bit loose, they could do what your saying. It's cheap to check it.
Good luck to you.
to check the harness going into the switch module you dont need to even take the door panel off, just pry up on the switch panel and itll pop out, the "silver box" is a circker breaker, id try swaping it out with another one
Allright, I will play with it a little see waht I can get it to do.
Has anyone ever had to replace a window motor? Im unsure as to how they even get them in and out of the door... Its really tight in there.
Has anyone ever had to replace a window motor? Im unsure as to how they even get them in and out of the door... Its really tight in there.
You'll probably have to replace the whole power window regulator, IDK it they sell motors separately. I just replaced the pass side because the little plastic wheel on the regulator broke and the window kept jumping the track. If you do have to go this route, make sure that you get the regulator that goes on the correct side of the vehicle. Thewy aren't interchangeable. Itnot a difficult job, you just have to wedge the window up off the rail while you work. I just shoved a screwdriver in a small hole in the door panel near the top to supportthe window.
The switchin the door makes more sense if it's an intermittantproblem. If you push a skiny standard screwdriver the switch and upolstry at thefront(the sidewith the door lock button on it) the retainer on the backside of theswitch willdepress and the switch will pop right out.Pull it out of the door panel and disconect the wiring harness.
Now inspect the wiring harness and the switch. The harness has female adaptors and the switch has the male prongs. I was having problems with the driver's door lock intermittantly failing and the problemwas the prong and recievernot mating correctly. The female reciever in the wiring harness was overlycompressed andwasn't making contact with the prong in the switch. I just bent the prong downward slightly to make a bettercontact.
Thereare 4 small prongs in the center oftheswitch. Those are the power and alarm connections. The outside larger prongs are for thewindows and door lock. You want to check the large prongs that are on the 4 cluster side (the 2 cluster side is the pass window controls) Now look for the 2 prongs that are directly across from the pass window prongs. Check those 2 prongs and their correspondingplace in the wiring harness. If anything looks off, gently bend accordingly. You can also jiggle the corresponding wires in the back of the wiring harness while operating the window button to see if it makes contact or if you have a loose wire.
If that fixes it great! If not you'll have to remove the whole door panel, peel back the moisture barrier and start checking other connections. If they all look good, then blame the motor.
The switchin the door makes more sense if it's an intermittantproblem. If you push a skiny standard screwdriver the switch and upolstry at thefront(the sidewith the door lock button on it) the retainer on the backside of theswitch willdepress and the switch will pop right out.Pull it out of the door panel and disconect the wiring harness.
Now inspect the wiring harness and the switch. The harness has female adaptors and the switch has the male prongs. I was having problems with the driver's door lock intermittantly failing and the problemwas the prong and recievernot mating correctly. The female reciever in the wiring harness was overlycompressed andwasn't making contact with the prong in the switch. I just bent the prong downward slightly to make a bettercontact.
Thereare 4 small prongs in the center oftheswitch. Those are the power and alarm connections. The outside larger prongs are for thewindows and door lock. You want to check the large prongs that are on the 4 cluster side (the 2 cluster side is the pass window controls) Now look for the 2 prongs that are directly across from the pass window prongs. Check those 2 prongs and their correspondingplace in the wiring harness. If anything looks off, gently bend accordingly. You can also jiggle the corresponding wires in the back of the wiring harness while operating the window button to see if it makes contact or if you have a loose wire.
If that fixes it great! If not you'll have to remove the whole door panel, peel back the moisture barrier and start checking other connections. If they all look good, then blame the motor.
Alright thanks...
I was just out trying to pop off that switch cover and couldent get it... so ill play with it and try to get the crip part of it.
Im kind of thinking that it may be the switch its self... When i get it apart ill jump the connectors and see if I can get the driver window to go down then...
Does anyone know if the "auto down" feature is in the switch its self or an extra connection that I will have to figgure out what it is?
I was just out trying to pop off that switch cover and couldent get it... so ill play with it and try to get the crip part of it.
Im kind of thinking that it may be the switch its self... When i get it apart ill jump the connectors and see if I can get the driver window to go down then...
Does anyone know if the "auto down" feature is in the switch its self or an extra connection that I will have to figgure out what it is?
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I had a door lock stop working on the passenger side... was the switch. I think it's your best bet to start. Mine ran me $10 bux at a wrecking yard. they pop up with a screw driver... get under the bezel and gently pry up.
the auto down is in the switch its self, i replaced mine a while back and dident have audo down but got the switch panel out of an 01 that had it, it pluged right in and now i have auto down
aim
when my little wheel broke i just took a 1/4 bolt welded a big nut (that just fit in the track) onto tha head of the bolt then ground it all down so it was round and just fit inside the track, then i drilled a hole where the pin was that held the plastic wheel and bolted my new "wheel" in with a nut on ither side of the arm then put a bunch of grease in it and hasent given me any troubble since

aim
when my little wheel broke i just took a 1/4 bolt welded a big nut (that just fit in the track) onto tha head of the bolt then ground it all down so it was round and just fit inside the track, then i drilled a hole where the pin was that held the plastic wheel and bolted my new "wheel" in with a nut on ither side of the arm then put a bunch of grease in it and hasent given me any troubble since
I took the switch off, and poped the cover off to get to the internals of the switch, I took off all of the little rocker things and cleaned every connector, including the one for the auto down... I put it back together and same thing...
Does anyone know if I were to take off the passenger side switch, and plug it into the driver side if the window button would opperate the driverside window? that would rule out the switch...
I know for a fact the switch is getting good contact, becasue I can visually tell, and I checked the coninuity (sp?) and all seems good... but there is a few electronic type looking things in the switch, so im thinking maybe one of those went bad.
I think that I am going to pop off the door panel and see if I can find some loose connections or somthing, because I dont think its the switch... Can anyone think of a way that I can test this to rule out that it is not the switch without going to the junk yard and picking one up?
Thanks.
Does anyone know if I were to take off the passenger side switch, and plug it into the driver side if the window button would opperate the driverside window? that would rule out the switch...
I know for a fact the switch is getting good contact, becasue I can visually tell, and I checked the coninuity (sp?) and all seems good... but there is a few electronic type looking things in the switch, so im thinking maybe one of those went bad.
I think that I am going to pop off the door panel and see if I can find some loose connections or somthing, because I dont think its the switch... Can anyone think of a way that I can test this to rule out that it is not the switch without going to the junk yard and picking one up?
Thanks.







