What I mean by wheel hop is, when im on a corner (not all angles do it) I can feel the inside tire grabbing, flexing the drivetrain then breaking loose, and contunually doing that.

I dont know if the no slip model is different, probably is but on this model if there is power going to the wheels, it doesnt mater what speed the tires want to turn they WILL turn the same speed, only when there is no throttle is it complely unlocked... and yes mine does unlock fine with no throttle.

Im willing to bet that the noslip is different and will unlock and slip more around a corner when there is light throttle on it. I know there are a few extra parts in the no slip...
If I turn a corner with no throttle im fine, but there is times where you cant help but give it throttle... or your like me and haul *** everywhere...

One way to get rid of this hopping im talking about around a corner is to give it more gas, then there is enough power to break loose the inside tire, but then your back end will always slide out from under you.

I think that the noslip is a better unit, I dont understand 100% how it works without seeing it, but I will once I see it in action.

 

I called richmond, told them I think the springs fell out... I got their line of talk saying that if it was set up corectly the spings cant fall out... I said sure... I took it apart and all of the springs are infact in there... the actual inside drivers CRACKED. Right where the pins keep them together...
I can tell you right now it is a design flaw... these pins do not extend into the drivers far enough... it would be fine if we are talking 4cylinders with tiny tires not doing anything hardcore... but this is MADE for trucks to go offroad... its crazy...

I took some pics... every single window for the pins is cracked.

Richmond said they can either replace the unit on warentee, posibally giving me the No-slip as a replacement, or I can pay a 120 dollar upgrade fee and they will just send me a no slip... I said I wanted to talk to the manager, he wasent at his desk so the guy I was talking to said he would talk to the boss and he would call me back.. its been a little over an hour now and I havent got a call... I think im going to give it another 25 mins then ill call them.

Dont anyone buy a lock rite... I was hard on the thing, yes but there is no way in hell it should of BROKEN... its made for offroad use, If I was offroading (which I never even got to do with it yet) and I got one of my back tires off the ground was in 4 low and gassed it real hard I have no doubt this thing would have broken... Now that I really look at how its held togeher when its locked is really insane.



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Called richmond back, I dident get any where, and insted of fighting I decided to pay thier 120 dollar "upgrade fee" for them to send me the no slip system and Ill send back the old broken lock rite...

After looking at the "exploded view" of the no slip, I see every single flaw that I saw with my lock rite to be addressed and the no slip seems to be stronger... HOPEFULLY it solves my problems.

posablly the reason this locker wasent working very good for me was becasue it was broken, and it wasent unlocking fullly all the time or something... but either way I think the no slip is a better choice.

 

Maybe it's because the pictures are blurry, but I dont see the cracks you are talking about...

I personally have the no-slip as well. dhvaughan and I got them around the same time. One thing I will tell you is that if you are planning on driving the truck like it has an open differential around corners and (as you say) punching the gas, the no-slip will lock up as well and give you wheel hop. In off-road conditions, the low traction surface reduces the stress you are causing on your drivetrain, but if this is happening on the asphalt, the binding is a lot worse.

The difference between the no-slip and the lock-rite is that the no-slip requires more torque before it locks (most simply said). This makes it more drivable on the street. However, if you still plan on "burying the speedo" around a corner, you can expect to be breaking components again. Even with the LSD you mentioned. You will probably end up burning up the clutches inside the LSD if you're doing the same thing.

That being said, these units are tough, and I've seen some great engineering in them. I am not a fan of the increased backlash either, but other than that, I've had no problems with mine (and I do wheel my rig - though not hardcore, but not soft either).

Long story short, once you get that no-slip in, if you are still having problems, I'm going to suggest you change your driving style. Your truck will be acting differently, so you need to adjust accordingly. (I hope this doesn't sound rude, it's just my personal judgment and .02)

 

When I say I burry the speedo I was just messing around... Dont ask why... and it wasent around a corner it was just out back on snow coverered dirt...

I dont take you as rude... I obviously drive my truck hard, and ill admit to that. If yall could see the way the truck acted with the lock-rite (maybe it was partly becasue it was broken) was not remotely driveable... I had my dad take it out and he said the same thing... he wouldent be able to get used to it... and he drives really easy, most of the time.

I think the noslip will be alot better... so im looking forward to it.
I guess the reason I went with the full locker is I was told by many people it wouldent affect the road manners much and would be MUCH stronger... I went with it for the strength reason... Im hard on it on the road... and im REALLY hard on it off road...

 

Do you have a manual transmission or an auto? I have had a few Detroit Lockers and I can tell you that when I had them in the manual tranny vehicles they were very "unfriendly" compared to the auto tranny vehicles.

The locker reacted better to the smoother torque of the auto tranny IMHO.

Be that as it may, the things you are not liking about the Lockrite will all be present in the No-Slip too (minus the cracked housing). The No-Slip is a bit tamer when unlocking, but the characteristics of any auto locker are pretty much the same no matter what brand or model you are talking about.

A limited slip will be much smoother and will not be noticable at all and will feel like an open differential. The drawback to the LSD is that if you do offroad your truck, all it takes to lose traction and momentum is to lift a tire off the ground. LSD suck off road IMHO, but are great for a DD, especially one driven in the snow/ice/sand/loose dirt.

It sounds like you would be happier with a LSD for your application. I just think you are going to pay the extra money to get out of your Lockrite and into a No-Slip and still be unhappy...I hope not, but I do think you would be better served to get a refund of your money and get a LSD. Or get a replacement if they won't refund and sell it for whatever you can get for it and then just take the loss and buy what you want.

 

I have an auto tranny.

They traded me up to the no-slip, I got it in and its better... but same thing.

I honestly dont know how they can sell these with a straight face and call them streetable.
I have only driven for like 2 miles with this one and they say 50 miles before it comes as smooth as it does... but I cant see it making much difference. I took off really lightly around this corner that is about 90 degrees... I can feel the tires scuffing around the corner and the truck kinda hops... also it was dry pavement in the one spot, I floored it from a stop to see what it would do around into a corner and HOP HOP HOP wheel hop like a bitch.
My other locker never MADE it to 50 miles to get fully broken in, so hopefully this one will and hopefully it will smooth out.

I will NEVER buy another richmond product... they really have nothing standing for them, their quality sucks, their products suck, their customer service sucks, quality control must suck becasue when I got my locker the spacer things that activate the synchos were machined absoulutely wrong and one end was so long I couldent intall it... I had to face both ends of the spacers on my lathe just to get the ****er to work.

Im going to do take it around the block, see if it will loosen up... (hopefully it wont BREAK)

 

Everyone who puts a lockrite in the 9.25 has the same problem you did. They're just not build to hold up to the power of a full sized pick up truck. I haven't heard too many bad things about the no slips though, and you will eventually get use to driving it. The first time you go offroad with it there will be no turning back for you.

The best locker they make for the 9.25 is the detroit, and that's the way i'd go if I were you if your no-slip doesn't work out for you. I've never heard a bad thing about a detroit locker. They don't break.

It's too bad they don't make selectable lockers for the 9.25 like the ARB air locker or (and dhvaughan just showed me this one the other day) the ox lockers which are selectable lockers and cable controlled. Those are deffinetly what I'm getting when I get my dana 60s. They're a little more expensive than the detroits, but the ability (and really neccessity in the front) to be able to turn it on and off as you choose is well worth the extra money in my opinion.

 

Ya, well its starting to get better... and as it sits I am able to get used to it. But to say its smooth as a lsd like they claim is a long stretch.
Ive driven vehicles with lsd's and I would have never known they were there, with this I know its there unless I drive like a grandma around a corner.

Ive tooken it "off road" behind my house (which is like 1 ft deep snow) and it does alright... no where to really offroad right now around here just becasue of the snow, but im looking forward to summer and ill see waht it can do... should be alot better.

 

well, damn. you're having as much success with lockers as i am with IAC's. you may have to start driving like grandma. better gas mileage too.