If you had to rebuild your engine
Ok here it goes. I have a 96 Ram with the 5.9 in it, just a little over 200k on the engine and I'm burning coolant and oil. I already have plans for a new longblock butI need to try andbudget for the other things like injectors and sensors. What would you guys replace if you were doing the job on your truck. If you are like me, I like to do the job once and do it right rather than have to go back and spend more money down the road.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
moe in wichita ks
the bigest thing is to NOT put to big of a cam in it. use brass freaze plugs and put J B weld on the outside to be sure they dont pop out. go to
http://www.zddplus.com/ and get the zinc additive they have. it comes in 4oz bottles. get at least 2 bottles. use one to assy the engine, put iton EVERTHING, even in the oil pump. and one in the crankcase. use a purlator pl14670 oil filter. when you start a new engine keep the rpm 2000 to 2500 for at least 15 min. and keep a close watch on temp, oil pressure, leeks. if ANYTHING goes wrong shut it off, fix itthen finish the break in. whatever you doDont let it idel till its done 2000 rpm for 15 min. this is to keep enough oil on the cam.
the bigest thing is to NOT put to big of a cam in it. use brass freaze plugs and put J B weld on the outside to be sure they dont pop out. go to
http://www.zddplus.com/ and get the zinc additive they have. it comes in 4oz bottles. get at least 2 bottles. use one to assy the engine, put iton EVERTHING, even in the oil pump. and one in the crankcase. use a purlator pl14670 oil filter. when you start a new engine keep the rpm 2000 to 2500 for at least 15 min. and keep a close watch on temp, oil pressure, leeks. if ANYTHING goes wrong shut it off, fix itthen finish the break in. whatever you doDont let it idel till its done 2000 rpm for 15 min. this is to keep enough oil on the cam.
If i had to rebuild my motor i would bore and stroke it run 10.1 comp. , mild cam , bigger heads , m1 intake , roller rockers , have the engine balanced and blueprinted ... while the motor is out put a different TQ convertor in.. bigger injectors , reflash the pcm ...
ORIGINAL: padodgeram
If i had to rebuild my motor i would bore and stroke it run 10.1 comp. , mild cam , bigger heads , m1 intake , roller rockers , have the engine balanced and blueprinted ... while the motor is out put a different TQ convertor in.. bigger injectors , reflash the pcm ...
If i had to rebuild my motor i would bore and stroke it run 10.1 comp. , mild cam , bigger heads , m1 intake , roller rockers , have the engine balanced and blueprinted ... while the motor is out put a different TQ convertor in.. bigger injectors , reflash the pcm ...
Already have it figured out. Starting from scratch. this is 3 years down the road:
Mopar shortblock, mild cam, Mopar performance Magnum aluminum heads 53cc chambers, 1.7 roller rockers, Mopar performance Aluminum MPI intake, Fastman TB, underdrive pulleys,B&G PCM, Edelbrock TES Headers, Mopar air cleaner and valve covers. PLUS A FASMAN TRANNY. About 6000 dollars.
Basically my engine with a cam and different heads. I am getting the fastman, pulleys, RRs,and B&G this year. I just don't know how an engine with 143,000miles will get accustomed to the higher compression heads. So i am gonna wait until its time to trash the current motor/tranny.
Mopar shortblock, mild cam, Mopar performance Magnum aluminum heads 53cc chambers, 1.7 roller rockers, Mopar performance Aluminum MPI intake, Fastman TB, underdrive pulleys,B&G PCM, Edelbrock TES Headers, Mopar air cleaner and valve covers. PLUS A FASMAN TRANNY. About 6000 dollars.
Basically my engine with a cam and different heads. I am getting the fastman, pulleys, RRs,and B&G this year. I just don't know how an engine with 143,000miles will get accustomed to the higher compression heads. So i am gonna wait until its time to trash the current motor/tranny.
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
come on... 22:1
ORIGINAL: padodgeram
If i had to rebuild my motor i would bore and stroke it run 10.1 comp. , mild cam , bigger heads , m1 intake , roller rockers , have the engine balanced and blueprinted ... while the motor is out put a different TQ convertor in.. bigger injectors , reflash the pcm ...
If i had to rebuild my motor i would bore and stroke it run 10.1 comp. , mild cam , bigger heads , m1 intake , roller rockers , have the engine balanced and blueprinted ... while the motor is out put a different TQ convertor in.. bigger injectors , reflash the pcm ...
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Plenty of good ideas, thanks to all of you. If it helps the transmission has less than 2k on it so would I really need the new torque converter if I replaced it during the rebuild. I found the injectors I need to use. Since I'm not big intoalot of performance what do you guys think of something like this.
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP886039/...ductDetail.htm
Yeah I know it's autozone but the price is right and I need dependability more than extra horsepower. If I had my way the mopar would be the way to go but the lowest I could find was 4400+ the core. Thats about the extent of my budget. hate to use it all and still not afford to finish it.
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP886039/...ductDetail.htm
Yeah I know it's autozone but the price is right and I need dependability more than extra horsepower. If I had my way the mopar would be the way to go but the lowest I could find was 4400+ the core. Thats about the extent of my budget. hate to use it all and still not afford to finish it.
Why not rebuild the one you have and put that money into things to make it go fast? I know you said performance is not most important to you, but if you can save 2 g's on a long block, you can put that into your current engine.
Yea definitely just redo your stock block, unless you throw a rod through it, save $$$$$$$
I would probably bore and stroke my motor a little, get the stock heads rebuilt and honed out a little bit, and buy the aluminum plate for the kegger and get it welded on by my buddy who has a Tig welder, screw the gasket, and then pressure test it to make sure it's sealed properly
I would probably bore and stroke my motor a little, get the stock heads rebuilt and honed out a little bit, and buy the aluminum plate for the kegger and get it welded on by my buddy who has a Tig welder, screw the gasket, and then pressure test it to make sure it's sealed properly




