I cut 1", but by time I was done smoothing it out, it is probably more like 1.25"

 

Here is a couple of after pics for you Steve. When I make the DIY thread on it, i'll have a ton more picutres of the "during" process.


[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/4532E096DF82416B93F09F31F7395896.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/63910E65292C45098C22A89D2C3238E6.jpg[/IMG]

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[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/BB9866D96CC444CD8871BBB58D66CCCA.jpg[/IMG]

 

After about 6 more hours today, i'm done, and she is running great. No coolant leaks, no leaks into the intake, no vacuum leaks. I turned the key to "on" about 4 times to let the fuel pump engage to build up pressure, then on the 5 try, I went ahead and started it right up. So that was about 6 hours yesterday, and about 6 hours today. That was me doing lots of extra stuff, and really taking my time. But that was also with me having the new intake completly assembled the day before (no time wasted installing the plenum repair kit during the 12 hours I was working on it). I still need to run some Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through it, and change the oil, but i'm at least done in time to watch the game.

Took it for a test drive, and the first thing that is noticable is that it idles and accelerates smooth as silk now. This could be due to the intake, or the bad plug wires I replaced, or the bad rotor I found when I took the cap off (notice how the little brass peice is broke/burnt off near the top).
[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/2D9C97890E9541208F4A57B9A0A210DF.jpg[/IMG]

As for the modded kegger, i'm going to hold off to give a full review of it, but just from driving it around the neighborhood for about 15 minutes, I can feel that it has a lot more power from mid range and up. Low end so far feels the same, so I don't think I lost anything there. I think it is breathing better at higher rpm though (really wish I had a tacometer so I could tell you for sure what range). When I got my B&G flash, I had them set the shift point slightly higher (not as high as they set them for the M1 but higher then stock) because I told him I was planning to do this modded kegger. I can tell already that was a great thing to do. It is noticable that I am making power all the way to those shift points now. Before the install, I ran out of juice before then, and would pedal it to get it to shift.

More to come as I drive it more, including a full DIY on modding your kegger. I might also have some updates to Steve's DIY on the plenum repair, which is already very good in my opinion. I want to get past the PCM learning time, and do a few trips on my usual drive to work (my yardstick that I measure all my mods on because I know exactly how the truck performs each and every day on that drive). Here's a few more pics for you though.

[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/40F80E10E49F4061AB975B5FFB76A937.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/E8CDAACD8A50481E8E1FEC786BEE790E.jpg[/IMG]

 

I remember you saying you got your new sensors at NAPA, is that where the Heater hose fitting came from also? ( Or whatever the neck next to the thermostat housing is) I got a new thermostat housing (I wanted a chrome one but couldn't find it), Just trying to replace as much as I can and keep it clean.

Also taking off the fan and shroud is really easy (a strap wrench is a must), and it made is to easy to get to all the bolts when you are standing in between the block and the radiator.

 

Not sure about dodge but it probably doesn't matter. On Chevys, chrome water necks always leak. Just slap some paint on it if you wanna dress it up.

 

So what advantage is there to shaving the kegger? And would you do that same amout if you had to do it again??

Thanks. I'm debating on whether or not to mess with it. My truck is a bone stock 360. I'm definately gonna change the cap/rotor/wires. Probably upgrade those. But no intentions of adding headers or anything else. Probably shave the top of the TB if I do the kegger.

 

Are you talking about the black tube on the thermostat? If so, that is the thermostat housing and I picked it up at the dealership.

Ya, I tried using two different strap wernches, an two differnet other methods, and I could not get the fan pully to stay still, so I couldn't get the fan off. I wish I could have because it definetly would have been easier on the knees and back, but there still would have been some stuff that you wouldn't be able to reach from there. Plus, I wasn't looking forward to having to get in and out of there everytime I needed to get something. What would be ideal is one of these:


[IMG]local://upfiles/9095/5F51657291904AD893E3C8F31F2DDCA2.jpg[/IMG]

 

Its WAY to early to tell you if I would do it different if I could do it again. I've literally only driven around my neighborhood for about 10 minutes since installing it.

 

The only way that I have been able to get the fan off the water pump is to use a small (6") pipe wrench. If you adjust it to where it will grab the lip of the pulleybetween the water pump and the outer edge where the belt runs, it will hold the pully still and you can get the fan off. The pipe wrench will need to be loose enough for it to lean about 45 to 70 degrees of the pully surface. I know this might sound confusing but it has always worked for me. I cannot tell you how many I have removed like that. I will try to take a picture to help with explaining it. PM me if any one needs this pic and I will get it.

 

we forget how a lifted truck would be such a PITA to get in and out ...