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More then half done - Plenum repair (update:IT'S ALIVE!)

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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:40 AM
  #31  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

Did you decide not to use the Ultra Copper?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:44 AM
  #32  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

That was on the belly pan gasket. I did use ultra copper there. I'm talking about on the Pan Rails.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 11:04 AM
  #33  
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Oh ok. Thanks. BTW how long did your APS kit take for you to get after ordering?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

Maybe a week. I don't recall for sure.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

off topic here . when was the egr stop ?? some say 97 but my 96 does not have one , but 97 have em .. i guess i gotta craw around my truck and see ..but if it doesnt have an egr thats 100.00 less for an M1
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 12:55 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

I just decided to forget the idea of a M1 and ordered a Pleneum kit from APS.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 09:17 AM
  #37  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

Silver -

Can you clarify something for me? Did you say you used RTV (Ultra Copper) between the intake/gasket/new aluminum pan and that was per the APS directions? This is in addition to the RTV that you put in the corners where the heads meet the block? I just received my Hughes plenum pan but I bought the plenum gasket/head-to-plenum gaskets/intake bolts from Fel-Pro. The Hughes pan came with new bolts and a metallic paper-thin plenum gasket with their new aluminum pan and the instructions do not say anything about RTV on the plenum pan-to-intake connection.

Can you elaborate? Can you post a scan of the APS instructions? Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 09:25 AM
  #38  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

Where did you get Ultra Copper RTV? I'm having trouble finding it. I've looked at Napa and Wal-Mart. What kind of package is it in? None of them seem to say copper. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 09:44 AM
  #39  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

when i put my fastman in i looked down, and saw black wet stuff all the way down. is that bad, i thought oil is sopposed to be down there ???if there is not, can i suction it out with a hose , because i cant do half the stuff you guys can do
 
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Old Feb 8, 2008 | 09:45 AM
  #40  
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Default RE: More then half done - Plenum repair

ORIGINAL: highlander73

Silver -

Can you clarify something for me? Did you say you used RTV (Ultra Copper) between the intake/gasket/new aluminum pan and that was per the APS directions? This is in addition to the RTV that you put in the corners where the heads meet the block? I just received my Hughes plenum pan but I bought the plenum gasket/head-to-plenum gaskets/intake bolts from Fel-Pro. The Hughes pan came with new bolts and a metallic paper-thin plenum gasket with their new aluminum pan and the instructions do not say anything about RTV on the plenum pan-to-intake connection.

Can you elaborate? Can you post a scan of the APS instructions? Thanks.
Ya, I can scan those in this weekend for you.

The really thin metallic gasket that came with your kit is the new revised Mopar part for the intake belly pan. It is supposed to be better then the old paper style, but I think it was designed by mopar to prevent leaks if you are using the stock belly pan (steel). That is why it is a metallic gasket. The Felpro gasket kit comes with that old style paper gasket, but i've heard it is very good. I almost used it instead, but decided to just stick with the APS instructions. They say to use a light coating of either The Right Stuff or Ultra Copper on both sides of the metallic gasket. It warns that too much could actually cause a leak. I just did a light coating. I'm not sure you would do the same if you used the Felpro gasket though.

You also put the Right Stuff in several spots on the pan rails of the block per the instructions and what I have heard/seen elsewhere. The pan rail is the thin area on the front and back of the block, you should have two smaller rubber looking gaskets that go there. Here's how I did mine. First, I laid a bead down from left to right along the length of the pan rails where the pan rail gaskets would sit. Then in the corners where the head, block, and intake come together, I laid down a thumb print size blob. Then I installed the pan rail gaskets on top of the bead I laid down, with the ends of the pan rail gasket sitting in the corner blobs. Next, I installed the head/manifold gaskets (the long ones that go on the side of the intake along the length of the heads). Note that they have a designated manifold side and head side. It is printed on the gasket which is which. When you set it in place, its bottom corners will sit down in the blob you had placed in the corners. I put a little more Right Stuff in the corners again, this time on top of the pan rail gasket and the side manifold gaskets where they came together in the corner. Then, I put a bead of The Right Stuff on top of the pan rail gaskets from left to right. That's pretty much what I did, and what the instructions say. No leaks so far.

On the intake, where the intake meets the pan rails, there could be two dimples (just like the ones on the pan rails that the pan rail gasket sits into). If your intake has these two dimples, you need to make sure you fill them with The Right Stuff too.

Hope this clears it up. Again, sorry about not getting some good pcitures of this, there was just a lot going at that moment, and pictures was the last thing on my mind.

 
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