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Kegger Intake Mod DIY
People will always argue the pros and cons of doing the kegger mod. Simple fact is, few of use have the time or desire to correctly dyno our trucks in the stock configuration, then do the mod, and repeat the dyno to see what/where the gain/loss really was. Most people who do the mod and report back how it performed are simply giving you their opinion of what the results where based only on feel, not any analytical data. Most people do the mod while they are fixing a bad plenum too, so that means the "feeling" afterword is probably skewed anyway since the before was a truck running with a blown plenum. The few real dyno reports I have read on the topic indicate that there is a slight loss of low end, but an increase of usable torque in the mid to upper. So knowing this, you have to ask yourself how you use your truck and where you want to make power.
For me, I make plenty of power on the low end due to 4.56 gears giving me a simple mechanical advantage (best type of low end help you can get). So having more usable torque on the top end for when I am climbing a steep mountain pass with a camper on my hitch seemed like a good idea. Turns out it was - for me. Might not be for you though.
My point is, don't bad mouth the mod if A) you have never even tried it to begin with, and B) you think low end performance increases are the only types of increases you need for how you use your truck. Others have a different opinion and use their trucks differently.
Lastly, there is always room for improvement over what was designed from the factory because engineers who design vehicles for the mass market have to take into consideration way more factors then what you might care about for your own truck. These designs are also over 15 years old now. Anything can be improved upon in some fashion, depending on what specifically you feel needs to be improved for how you use your truck.
For me, I make plenty of power on the low end due to 4.56 gears giving me a simple mechanical advantage (best type of low end help you can get). So having more usable torque on the top end for when I am climbing a steep mountain pass with a camper on my hitch seemed like a good idea. Turns out it was - for me. Might not be for you though.
My point is, don't bad mouth the mod if A) you have never even tried it to begin with, and B) you think low end performance increases are the only types of increases you need for how you use your truck. Others have a different opinion and use their trucks differently.
Lastly, there is always room for improvement over what was designed from the factory because engineers who design vehicles for the mass market have to take into consideration way more factors then what you might care about for your own truck. These designs are also over 15 years old now. Anything can be improved upon in some fashion, depending on what specifically you feel needs to be improved for how you use your truck.
And your father walked you to school..... because you were both in the same grade. LOL
Thanks to Jeff Foxworthy
Thanks to Jeff Foxworthy
Ya sorry im an a** just ask my wife im horrible at wording stuff I didn't mean to start crap or be smart I was just asking a question really I need to be asking chrysler although im sure I will be ignored. But anyhow bach stood for bachelor im on my cell phone and have fat club fingers so typing alot is a pain in my ****.
To answer the question about 'why the divider in the kegger to begin with?' is really simple. Chrysler designed the intake for low end torque thus the 16" long runners. The divider started out as a simple support for the EGR tube inside the intake up thur '95. In '96 when the EGR system was eliminated then so was the EGR tube but the divider remainder up thru '97 into the early part of '98. Then Chrysler decided they could save a few bucks and possibly a few steps in the production process by eliminating the divider all together since it served no purpose to begin with other than a support of the now eliminated EGR tube. Other than creating a ton of unnecessary air turbulence inside the intake, the divider is totally useless.
What I never was able to figure out was Chrysler's reasoning for leaving the steel belly pan on the aluminum intake, which was on every Magnum engine they ever built, when they knew it caused gasket problems. Would have been real simple to cast the same belly pan in aluminum and bolt it to the intake! Could it have possibly been because it created MORE business in the dealership service bays???
What I never was able to figure out was Chrysler's reasoning for leaving the steel belly pan on the aluminum intake, which was on every Magnum engine they ever built, when they knew it caused gasket problems. Would have been real simple to cast the same belly pan in aluminum and bolt it to the intake! Could it have possibly been because it created MORE business in the dealership service bays???
What I never was able to figure out was Chrysler's reasoning for leaving the steel belly pan on the aluminum intake, which was on every Magnum engine they ever built, when they knew it caused gasket problems. Would have been real simple to cast the same belly pan in aluminum and bolt it to the intake! Could it have possibly been because it created MORE business in the dealership service bays???
Casting pan would have been considerably more expensive that stamping out of sheet metal, plus breakage. Don't know why the didn't go to the 1/4" aluminum plate. More costly that sheet metal, but fixes prblem.
You're probably right plus the fact that it was quite the 'little profit maker' for the dealerships!
Consider, labor time for intake R&R is probably around 5 to 6 hours. After the mechanic has done a couple, he can do it in four. After a few more, and he learns all the tricks, he can do it in three, but, still gets paid for six....... Chrysler didn't WANT to fix the problem. If it lasted long enough to be out of warranty, it was money in the bank.









