Hey guys,
THis is the first time I am doing something by myself and its a huge job for me. All the DIYs here and posts make it seem simple but here is what i am doing. And I have 2 weeksto do it because I will have the wife's car for that time.

1.March Pulleys
2.APS plenum(and kegger mod..thanks silver)
3. 50mm fastman
4. Dual fans (550 CFM custom shroud) I am not skilled like PADODGERAM and can't fab anyhing myself.
5. 180* t stat
6. Oil pump
7. Comp timing chain
8. TCI external tranny cooler

THanks to dhvaughn, silverand steve for their DIYs. Because of them, i feel that i can do this. HOWEVER, I am unsure i can put the distributor back on the right way.

Here is how i can approach this. WOrk from the bottom up. I am getting the fel pro gasket kit from rockauto for 115. Start with the oil pump, main seals. Then move the crank to TDC, swap the timing chain (taking off all accessories needed to take off intake). THEN mark the intake and distributor with a paint pen, since at TDC. Take off the distrib and intake, while not touching the crank. Mod the kegger. Replace intake and distrib, lining up the marks i made with the paint pen. Then replacing the underdrive pulleys on the correspondingaccessories before reinstallation.

Is there anything i am missing? i know i left out the cooler and fan, but their order is irrelevant to my concerns.

Also, from the dealer sticker on the 1996, it has a 136 amp alt....will I need to go bigger with elec fans and a MSD and hypertech coil?

THanks.

 

I would be tempted to bump up to a higher amperage alternator, but you probably wouldn't HAVE to. Asfar as the distributor, everything I've ever read about replacingone says to do just what you said...paint marker. If you have a Hayne's manual or anything close, you should be fine...it'll tell how to change the distributor in detail.

 

i have the haynes, but haven't looked at that part yet. My fauly for asking first and researching later. I just thought of the paint pen and wanted to bump it with the forum.

Thanks for the answer. The build starts mid march. and I'll post the results...or sale of a truck that won't start.

 

Haha...you'll be fine. My brother and I will probably be doing mine around June...not as much as you, but just the plenum fix and a Fastman...haven't decided 50mm or 52mm yet. Then my next order of business will be the PCM...more than likely B&G...that other place (SCT?)is like $600.[:@] make sure you get some ziploc bags or old cool whip bowls or something to keep up with the different bolts...that's always a nightmare.

 

Do you have to pull the timing chain area apart to do the pleneum? Should I have the shop do the timing chaing when they do it or would that be a lot extra in labor?

 

No, they don't need to take the TC off to do the plenum. But since the water pump is attached to the TC cover, I think they might add2-3 hours to the total labor time. Because theymight change the main sealswhen they remove the oil pan (need to take off oil panwhen you take the TC cover off).

If I were you, i would not take yours in, and buy topols with the money in labor you will save. The shop will charge 150 for a gasket kit (that they won't use all the gaskets for). As far as labor....look at paying about 6-800 depending on hourly rate. ALSO, a shop will say they installed a double roller, when they will probably replace the stock one you have with another stock one that costs twice as much as an aftermarket with timing advance/retard. my timing chain costs 5 dollars. Shops will always take the more expensive part because they get 20% off the price from the supplier but charge you the full price. Thats how they make a living. Also, if it only takes them 4 hours to do a job that says 8 hours on he computer...you get charged the 8 hours from their computer. Same goes if it takes them 10 hours to do an 8 hour job...they will only charge you 8 hours.

One of my good friends is a mechanic and he was able toget paid50 hours a week when he only worked 40. THats how they make their money...they need to be fast and do good work.

 

RAM 2K1,

I was deating 50 or 52 mm myself. Because i am doing a kegger mod and I am running 24lb/hr injectors. I figure with the more fuel that is going in...if I had more air it would match it better. I think i am gonna ask the fastman himself for that one, but if you want to chime in. Also i don;t know if he will take a 318 core tb for what would normally be a 360 core TB.

 

Not True.

Also I would remove Intake and all accesories first. Strip it down to the block and valvecovers and work from there.

Put your screws in baggies together ande label them. Take pictures of parts before you take them off. The DIYs are great and save you time. But not every truck is the same. I am struggling with taking the starter off, but I have already taken off timing cover. If you do not damage the gasket you will be able to re-use it. Also if you don't take all the accesories off it is even more of a PITA to work with. The plenum is much easier to get at if you stand in the cavity created by taking the shroud out.

Its alot of work but not really Hard. Just you have to have the right tools, and don't use anything 3./8" on the starter bolts they are probably over-torqued.

 

The Fastman recommends the 50mm for the 5.2L and for the 5.9L if you tow a lot. I think I would definitely stick with the 50mm for the 5.2L, since it is engineered to give the best low/top end performance. You don't want to get all top end on a heavy truck. I think the kegger mod coupled with the 50mm would be a great combo.

 

Why are you pulling the Distributor ?????