So according to your logic a worn out timing chain will give youBetter performance...

 

lol. yes. that's what all performance cars are running on the track. matter of fact, worn timing chains are highly sought after performances pieces. i think ive seen john force in the local junkyard a time or two, looking for one.[sm=chairshot.gif]



think about what you just said and what a worn timing chain does.





and with that ladies and gents, i'm offto hit the hay.

 

I don't know why I'm wasting my time with this, but here goes...

SO if retarding the cam is a good thing I should just run my sloppy original.
As the chain and gears wear the cam should be retarded because the crank has to turn more to take up the slack.

Guess I just saved $100 and a couple hours of work!

 

I was hoping for a definite answer. I just decided that i don't do any racing I only haul my flat boat and thats about it.

I think I will just set it stock. I don't want to have problems down the line, and what I was told dosen't seem to be true.

 

its a logical reason, but not totaly. A worn chain is A. Inaccurate (dont know how much it is retarded) and B. Inconsistant (It allows the the chain to jostle advancing and retarding the cam all the time)

Having personally tried all 3 settings on a stock cam Im pritty sure I should be able to lay this to rest without conflict.

Stock-no explaination necessary
Advance-Total dog, 0-30 felt the same, 30-60 felt slower, 60+ INCREADABLY slow
Retarded- Night and day diffrence. No real gains at the track (15.03 at 4*r. vs 15.05 at 0*) The low end wasnt lacking at all, and honestly seemed to give a very slight improvement as far as rolling into the gas from a stop. The top end was rather nice. The best way for me to notice the diffrence was when the wheels were spinnin. @0* it would break the wheels loose and slowly rev up. @ 4*r. it would break the wheels loose and rocket up. Thats about the best way to describe it. not a horribly noticable change at part throttle, but pritty noticable at wot.

Like zddp said. valve timing and ignition timing are two seperate things.

Retarding the valve timing allows the combustion charge to be taken in sooner, allowing more time for compression. Advancing the ignition timingsparks sooner, before the piston is tdc.This doesnt change compression ratio incase anyone is wondering

 

The Engine Analyser 3.2 software says
the stock valve timing settings listed in the 1995 FSM
amount to a 9 degree retard.

My memory is a little hazy on the subject
but I think someone posted in the past
that the main effect of a 6 degree advance
was that the idle became noticeably smooth
"Lexus Like" is what I seem to remember.

The Performance Trends Engine Analyser 3.2 software
does not show vary much change with either an advance or retard
of 6 degrees...torque changes are less than 3 ft-lbs max across the rpm range
with most places on the graph within 2

 

computers can only take you so far.

 

I have mine advanced 4 degrees at this time, but your post interests me. Why do you think you will kill power on a stock cam by advancing it? Mine did feel a little weaker when I first done it, but after new plugs and a couple hundred miles it felt pretty good. (Unless I just got used to it). When I bought the truck it was needing the chain, so I really don't know how it should feel when it isnormal.It has been several months since I did the job, and unfortunately the timing cover has started leaking so I am getting ready to tear it down again and fix it. If yall can convince me it is better to set it back stock orretarded I will!! I am kind of confused on this subject after hours of reading different things on the Internet. Most places tell you that it onlys moves the powerband lower and that is the only effect it has. That seems like to me a logical thing to do on a heavy vehicle to gain performance. I have also read that the cam design needs to taken into consideration when doing this; like if the the cam had advance already built into it. I have no idea of the specs on the stock cam for 2001. I would think that a stock cam would be retarded for emmission issues, and also considering the history that rams have for pinging it would be logical for the cams to be installed retarded from the factory. So if you have the plenum fixed up where it won't ping, it would seem like to me that you would have an advantage to having the valve timing advanced. Why would retarding or stock be better? If I had the time and money I would try all three settings and I would know for sure! I know IndyRamMan did all three settings, but his truck is a two wheel drive Indy. He likes the retarded setup the best. But, I think they may have a differentcam than my 2001 quad cab four wheel drive? I hope someone can set me straight on the proper way to set the truck up, so I can go ahead and start working on my truck!!

 

how do u retard timing to 4 degrees

 

You buy a camshaft sproket with three keyways. One for stock, advance and retard. I decided to retard it after all. Idles good, but I did a ton of work at the same time. Gas milage still stinks, but now I think I need to change or bang out my cat. Can't think of why I am getting 9mpg.