I use Performance Friction pads and like them. They're a carbon metallic pad and have held up very well.

To further help stopping distances try powerslot rotors on the front. If you what a firmer pedal, swap the rubber brake lines for stainless steel braided lines, they won't flex like the rubber tubing and really firm up the brake system.

 

see this is what im talking bout with not great reviews for the money. look into the autozones, lifetime warrant meaning i wont ever buy pads again for this veh.

also hometheaterman, most of your braking force comes from the front, thats why youre not going through your drums that much...


the tundra has 2 piston calipers in the rear and 4 piston calipers in the front.. wow...

 

I know most of the breaking is in the front and thats why the shoes in the rear last longer but 20k on a set of pads up front suck. What are others getting?

 

I'm still on stockers with over 100k. Rear was replaced about 65k and just had them adjusted at the shop. Helps to have a stick.

 

I didn't say they'll only last 20k miles, did I?
I said I'll change em every 20k miles.
just like how I run amsoil 25k mile oil and change every 7500-10k miles
why push the limits, ESP since the brakes are free and a blind monkey can change em.


You spent $100+ (fronts only) on brakes that you said were ok
I spent $60 bucks (front and rear) and they do just fine and I'll never have to pay for new ones.
Now if you have huge tires and heavy wheels then youll want a better braking system all together.

 

aim4squirrels
to my knowledge you can't put drilled and slotted rotors on a lathe. Am I wrong? They will also warp easier if you dont buy the higher end ones.
Even the early 3rd gens only have 1 piston calipers in the front and rear. My 06 has 2 in the front and 1 in the rear. Guess the only benefit with dodge being cheap on their brakes is fewer calipers to clamp back in so you can fit em back on the rotor.
Look at the diff from 2nd gen 2500s to 3rd gen 2500s brakes, their rear rotor brakes are bigger than the second gen fronts, so at least theyre working on improving them.

Now I'm one to waste money, 2 weeks ago I blew 1400 bucks on online gambling in about 30 min, but I think the autozone lifetime warranty makes the most sense.

As for the squeaking I'll have to look what its called but its some blue crap I spray on the back of the pad and it kills any squeak.

 

Yeah, you can turn slotted and drilled rotors.
I also recomend turning new rotors no matter
what the packing says if you put new ones on.
9 times out of ten they will need to be trued-up.
Hawk-pads seem to work the best for me but,
they are a aggressive pad and will eat at your rotors
rather quickly. Also, like the other poster said; grease
all your contact points with the proper grease.
Don't use wheel bearing grease. Get the correct stuff.
It's more water proof and won't wear away as quick.

 

Slotted rotors can be turned. Drilled rotors are weaker. Powerslots are not drilled, just slotted and significantly thicker than the stock rotors.

 

No I'm not trying to say what you did is wrong. That may have very well been how I should have gone.

I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting 20k out of a set. They are worn out then it's not usually just me replacing them. The first set was worn out but I don't know exactly how many miles were on them. The second set was Raybestos $60 pads and they lasted about 16k or so. The 3rd set was a set of OEM Mopar ones and they seemed to wear a lot better but when I hit 10k or so or on them I pulled them apart to grease to help the squeeking and they were all cracked up. I'd say they were half life here so I'm guessing 20k.

Do I have something wrong or do these trucks need breaks this often? I do like the Raybestos I have now so far I just wasn't super crazy about the set of $60 Raybestos as they wore out so fast. I don't know how these will last. The work fairly well though so far. Should I have spent that much? Probably not but I had to have them right then. I had a bad experience with Advance Auto Pads back in the day on my old truck. I just didn't like them as they make horrible noises but maybe grease would have fixxed that idk.

The Autozone is on the other side of town and I didn't want to drive over there if I didn't have to so that left Fishers and Napa who imo have the best parts usually of the parts stores. I wanted Ceramic but the guy at Fishers talked me out of it as said If I did any towing or anything like that with it they weren't recommended and that he probably wouldn't put them on. They had some cheaper pads but I decided I would go all out and get a the best they had as brakes aren't something I want to cheap out on.

Like I said I finally ended up getting the right Hawk pads from Summit but I had already had to have some pads by then so I will keep these until the next time I needed them.

They sent me the wrong Hawk pads the first time and I paid for 2day. They refunded all that and I sent those back and they were supposed to overnight the other ones after I got a part # for the right ones from Hawk. Well, they accidentally shipped it ground so I didn't get them in time.

The Hawk pads Summit lists for our truck is wrong unless they changed it. They say it fits the 1500,2500, and 3500 and it doesn't. They are for the 3500 and I'm not sure about the 2500 but the 1500 pad is smaller and it also costs more which doesn't make sense to me.

 

BTW on Lifetime Warranty doesn't this mean that if something goes wrong? Not that you just wear them out? I thought most pads had this but I figured it wouldn't cover it if you wear out. Usually it says it warrantys against defects.