Forgot to mention that to you in the last pm Indy. Ill have a look around n see if I can find the bill/part #. (tomorrow/getting ready for work)

 

Quick search on Summit and the only one that came up were these. Number sounds familiar
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D2400&am p;N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

Thanks guys, for the responses. The dome light is working well, thank you. With the exception of the one fuel injector, I have done all of the work myself with helpful suggestions from people like yourselves who spoke from their personal experiences. I am right about the vast number of posts addressing the rough idle, missing and backfiring. When I got to the end of my expertise, I tried the supposedly professionally trained experts but Irepaired the obvious before seeking help.After I replaced the leaking muffler I could clearly hear the rattling in the converter. The timing chain had about 20 degrees of slack, the rotor had about 10 derees of slack, faulty fuel injector o-rings could have caused the backfiring, the diagnostics code translated into a bad water temp. sensor, the counter help at AutoZone said the throttle position sensor was bad, etc. etc. etc. The compression varies from 140 to 160 psi which translates to150 plus or minus 7% which is good. I did expect the diagnostic equipment at the dealership to be able to detect valve problems, vaccum leaksand so forth. My hesitancy at throwing money at a problem is why I have never voted democrat and won't and why I haven't blindly replaced the EGR valve, PCM or theremaining sensors. I confess again to believing that a professional examination of those components would detect any problems. However, I could have replaced every sensor on the truck and all of the fuel injectors for what it cost me to get factory trained assistance and I might have lucked out and fixed the problem! Live and learn.

The rest of the truck is so good that it just seems a shame that it won't run right. So, if my ranting has offended anyone, I most humbly apologize.

Keep on truckin'.

 

sell it and buy a chevy..

 

Granpa49 when you did all of this work that would affect the dist location did you have the fuel sync checked & is it set at "0" at the moment? I had my motor done recently & it did not have the power that expected it would so I did some research about settings & took the truck back down to them & asked if they hooked up their snapon scanner after the engine was in. They said no since it was running fine, I then edjucated them in the fuel sync issue & that the dist was not used to set timing, they are old school mechanics & very good so after checking the manuals they admitted they did not know about this. I showed them the menu in the scanner where you check for fuel sync & mine was @ -18 degrees, they pulled the dist & movedthe drive gear1 tooth, fired it up & adjusted it to "0".

It is a whole diff truck after getting it set correctly, the reason I share this is with your list of things you have done you have you have moved the dist atleast once if not more & it should be checked. Mine had a rough idle & stumbled a bit but who knows if yours is retarded or advanced or by how much.

The dealer can check this or an independant mechanic with a snapon scanner can as well if he know where to look for the screen. If you don't have the manual that describes this procedure search for the Christmas thread & it is in that manual.

 

Last time I went to a dealership, it was to have my fuel sync set. I asked the Red team (the bs team I was asigned to after having bought several service trucks from this particular dealership) manager to have them set it at +3. He looked at me funny and said ok. When the red team mechanic that worked on my truck brought it back out (after a romp down the street behind the dealership in which I got to hear how loud the exhaust was from afar), I said +3 right? He gave me a "uhhh, ya". I found out a bit later that the new mechanic at the shop right up the street had a Snap-on scanner, and we checked it. Dead on 0. Not that that matters, but, to me, it spoke volumes about the knowledge they had of thier own "diagnostic equipment". IDK for sure but I would bet 10 that most of thier factory training deals with how to roust thier cutomers out of thier hard earned cash.

 

My1500.net Thanks for your suggestion. I didn't use a scanner, but this is what I did. The vibration damper has two marks for setting the distributor position/fuel sync. One of these marks is for the V8 and the other for the V6. The V6 mark is about halfway around the damper from the top dead center or zero mark. The method I used for setting the fuel sync is to set the crankshaft so that the V6 mark aligns with the timing pointer on the front of the block, then rotate the distributor until a resistance meter connected to the wiring harness triggers. When the distributor is set at the threshold where resistance drops to zero, it is supposed to be correct. This procedure can be found in a Chilton's. As you obviously already know,theengine timing isset bythe flywheel position sensor and not by the distributor position. The sensor in the distributor indicates the position of the camshaft and times the fuel injectors. With that setup distributor drive shaft bushing and gear tooth wear on an older engine can effect the correlation between the distributor position and the camshaft position. Some people report getting a little better response by advancing the distributor a few degrees to get the fuel into the combustion chamber a little earlier. I haven't tried that. You are right about the importance of this subject.

 

Yes I am familiar with that method, it is the method that the mechanics used to set my timing initially along with using a straight edge from the dist drive gear lined up with #1 cylinder intake bolt per the shops Haynes manuals when they put the new engine in. I have found that what is mechanically set can be very different from what the computer sees & if the fuel sync is off as read through the computer so is the timing & it will behave very strangly. Also it did not set any codes for the week I was driving it that way but I did notice that my fuel mileage was way down at about 6 miles per gallon, after getting it set correctly I had all of the power that I was expecting +some & my mileage is back up at about 12 mpg. [/align][/align]This is just something I thought would be worth checking, I know it made a huge differance on my 5.9.[/align]

 

Here is Logic 101:

1. Mechanical devices break down.
2. A truck is a mechanical device.
3. Therefore a truck will break down.

Most of us have great experiences with these trucks, and have little if no problems whatsoever. You just do not hear from us. Some ride 'em hard and put 'em away wet, and have many problems.

At 193K miles, your engine may be ready for a complete overhaul. That is a lot of miles friend.

 

Just wait till you start modding the truck , it never ends...