OK, the torque converter is shot and so are the selonoids. The shops says the cost is $1200. If you were me, would you flip the extra $1,000 to buy a Dr. Evil refurb or just do the TC? Money is an issue but I will spend the extra cash so I don't need to deal with another tear down in the near future. The truck is an 01 with 104k. All advice welcome.

Mike

 

1200 for JUST the tq and solenoids???? I build them for 950 plus 400 removal and installation. Thats with a new converter, solenoids and a cooler. Most shops around here are within the same ball park.

If the governer pressure solenoid and GP sensor are shot along with the converter id go ahead and do an overhaul on it. Most likely you will have scorched clutches and fine aluminum through out the unit.

 

Roger that, your a good man.

$1200 included labor. Thanks for the feedback.

My shop jobs out the tranny work (I live in the sticks). I asked about other stuff going, specifically other friction material, they said 1st, 2nd, 3rd and O/D clutches don't go like the TC frictions does. I am not expert but I do question the logic.

Do you know anything about Raebestos Indy red vs their Blue friction? Is it worth the delta?

 

I would probably go with a new transmission. The reason being these things have soo many issues and they all seem to go out around 100k miles. This being said if you just do the TQ converter then have the 2nd gear band issue quite a few of us have or the od unit go like a lot of people have you now have spent $1200 that is useless. These transmissions have several internal issues not just the tq converter.

 

Why do they say the TQ is bad? What usually happens is the Tq starts going bad, the impeller, turbine and stator start ever so slightly going out of alignment, they begin to produce fine liquidy metal, which then gets attracted to the GP solenoid and the GP sensor. Which causes the truck to have weird shifting problems and other quirks. The solenoid and sensor gets replaced and the truck shifts correctly again until the converter completely goes out of alignment and destroys it self. Sometimes before the TQ destroys itself a good bit of that metal gets stuck behind the check valve in the cooler line. Causing the cooler line to become blocked, then the planets and other hard parts no longer recieve cooling lubrication then over heat and literally melt together.

Now, as your GP solenoid and sensor go bad the truck will do weird things as said before. The computer is controlling and mointoring this sensor. So if the solenoid and sensor are malfunctioning, it could result in high line pressure and low line pressure, it could supply the wrong pressures at the wrong time. Low pressure will cause the frictions to slip and create heat and become scorched.

As far as good friction material, just use a good name brand products. If the unit is built correctly you wont have a problem with the friction material. Personally i use Alto High Energy frictions, they are green.

The 46/47re/rh is a damn good transmission, very easy to build, and will take some abuse, if built properly.

 

From what I've heard and read the 46RE is a good transmission if built right but seems like it's got a lot of issues if not built. So for the guys with stock ones it doesn't seem to be that great.

 

MonteC,

I have those wierd shifting issues you suggest... My mechanic is new to me and small town were eveyone knows everyone. He told me about the metal and the selonoids. Knowing this, I am sure he won't do anything to screw his reputation. I was asking about the indy red versus the blue as your first post reinforced my thoughts on the refurb. I have been eyeing dr. evil knowing the time would come.

Based on your detailed response,I suspect you work for a shop, a Mopar shop. What are your thoughts on a regular pan versus a deep disk with an extra few quarts? I am tring to ustify the Rebestous blue and deep disk for an extra $400. Thanks.

Mike

 

Not many issues inside the trans. The converter is crap, cooling system is adequate at best, GP sensor and solenoid are very finiky.

If someone had taken a ram off off the show room floor back in 98 and pulled the trans out, stuck in a good aftermarket converter, upgraded the cooling system, did regular fluid changes and check the band adjustment every fluid change then they would have a solid reliable trans.

 

Nope, i build all transmissions. I just take a genuine intrest in making transmissions work their best. I also pride my self in knowing as much as i can about each transmission. I technically work for myself, its a complicated situation, (especially when i do my taxes, LOL!).

Deep pan is the way to go, you can never get enough cooling. More fluid = more cooling.

Reybestous is up to you. Personally its not worth it, unless you are doing HEAVY hauling or drag racing frequently.

Also make sure you cut out the cooler drain back check valve, just replace it with a piece of hose or get a fancy hose made if you dont like the look of just a hose and clamps. That little valve can get stuck closed causing all kinds of BAD news.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I think this is what I am going to do. I think I will skip the two options.





PURE EVIL Package Price: $1995
Bushing Kit, Master Overhaul Kit, New OEM Style Filter, New Washers And Bearings, New Bolt In Style Low Roller Clutch, Raybestos Indy Red Clutches In The Forward, High – Reverse, High Energy Overdrive Clutches, Reprogrammed Street Strip Valve Body, New OEM Solenoid, Upgraded 2nd Brake Band To High Energy Material, Upgraded 2nd Band Lever 5.0 Ratio And Band Strut.
Plus Other Upgrades That Dr. Evil Will Not Divulge

Options:


[ul][*]Blue Plate Upgrade: $300[*]Aluminum Deep Pan: $160 [/ul]
http://www.dreviltransmissions.com/home.html