Rear Differential...CASE CLOSED=)
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
I picked up my truck from the shop tonight, and I talked to my guy about your issue. He said he thinks what I described is not enough to warrant a full rear-end swap. He thinks it would be fine to use as is. Of course, he was only going by my description and hasn't seen it first hand.
I think you should seriously get a second opinion from a 4x4 specialty shop.
The shop that was working on my truck said they did 4 front and rear gear swaps just this week, and they had another in the bay that they were finishing up this weekend. That's 5 in one week. He said that's the norm too. Image how many gears and differentials they see in a year or more. That's the kind of people you want looking at this issue in my opinion. Seriously do yourself a favor and get a second opinion!!!!!!
I picked up my truck from the shop tonight, and I talked to my guy about your issue. He said he thinks what I described is not enough to warrant a full rear-end swap. He thinks it would be fine to use as is. Of course, he was only going by my description and hasn't seen it first hand.
I think you should seriously get a second opinion from a 4x4 specialty shop.
The shop that was working on my truck said they did 4 front and rear gear swaps just this week, and they had another in the bay that they were finishing up this weekend. That's 5 in one week. He said that's the norm too. Image how many gears and differentials they see in a year or more. That's the kind of people you want looking at this issue in my opinion. Seriously do yourself a favor and get a second opinion!!!!!!
Oh btw if you come get it with a tow truck you don't have to tell him you are taking it to another shop. Although if you go across the street it might be obvious but otherwise you can just tell him you don't know what you want to do yet so would rather have it taken home. You don't have to go hey I'm towing it to another shop for a second opinion. This way no one gets mad. The only flaw I see here is like Silver I'd take it to a 4x4 shop and if you go across the street he will probably see the truck there. I still think I'd take it over there for a second opinion though. As I haven't heard anyone say they think it's bad enough to replace.
I've been avoiding this thread, but i just decided to read the last couple pages. And 78 different people have told him to have it towed to the other shop and have it looked at. Which i agree with. But does he have to get it towed? Can't he take out the rear drive shaft, have the c clips in the housing so the axles don't fall out, drop it into 4wd, and drive it across the street? Or to another 4x4 shop that is really close and have them look at it? He seems to be avoiding bringing it to another shop and if it's not because he doesn't want to pay to get it towed then that would solve the problem.
ORIGINAL: sbrunn9
I've been avoiding this thread, but i just decided to read the last couple pages. And 78 different people have told him to have it towed to the other shop and have it looked at. Which i agree with. But does he have to get it towed? Can't he take out the rear drive shaft, have the c clips in the housing so the axles don't fall out, drop it into 4wd, and drive it across the street? Or to another 4x4 shop that is really close and have them look at it? He seems to be avoiding bringing it to another shop and if it's not because he doesn't want to pay to get it towed then that would solve the problem.
I've been avoiding this thread, but i just decided to read the last couple pages. And 78 different people have told him to have it towed to the other shop and have it looked at. Which i agree with. But does he have to get it towed? Can't he take out the rear drive shaft, have the c clips in the housing so the axles don't fall out, drop it into 4wd, and drive it across the street? Or to another 4x4 shop that is really close and have them look at it? He seems to be avoiding bringing it to another shop and if it's not because he doesn't want to pay to get it towed then that would solve the problem.
What does it matter ? towed $$$ , already apart , then put back toghter $$$ not free , take it some where else take apart look at $$$ , way behind the 8 ball , got couple hundred dollars invested just looking at it .. unless you guys want to get a kitty fund for neon and you can pay for some one else to look at it , pay for getting it towed to...Then if he goes and says but this forum im on said its not a big deal , or it will be fine, others said it looks ok , then he mite have another issue where they wont warranty the work or parts , then where does that lead to ???
Because he is going to spend ton on a new housing well, used when he could go tow it to another shop for probably $100 and have them put it back together for the same price this guy probably would. I highly doubt he actually needs a new housing and some of the guys on PS actually know what they are doing with this stuff which is why I recommended he go over there and a few of them said it looks fine too. Now it's hard to tell from the pictures thats why I say get another shop that knows more about it to look at it. If they tell you it needs one too maybe you should get them to do it.
Will this guy not let someone from another shop walk across the street and you pop the cover off in the parking lot? It doesn't have to be up using his lift. I mean cmon it can't be that hard to push it across the street or drive it like said above. Or to get the guys to come over and check it out in the parking lot or something. Since it's all apart all you need to do is pop the cover off. How much could that possible cost to have someone check it out? I mean it takes what 5 minutes if that to pop the cover off? It's a lot better than getting screwed again.
I can't promise you that you don't need a housing just like the guys on PS can't but enough people have said it looks good enough to reuse that I would atleast get a second opinion from a shop and be iffy of what the guy is telling me. See if they will warranty it too. I'd make sure they would do that then even if you have a problem just take it back. Get it all in writing.
Will this guy not let someone from another shop walk across the street and you pop the cover off in the parking lot? It doesn't have to be up using his lift. I mean cmon it can't be that hard to push it across the street or drive it like said above. Or to get the guys to come over and check it out in the parking lot or something. Since it's all apart all you need to do is pop the cover off. How much could that possible cost to have someone check it out? I mean it takes what 5 minutes if that to pop the cover off? It's a lot better than getting screwed again.
I can't promise you that you don't need a housing just like the guys on PS can't but enough people have said it looks good enough to reuse that I would atleast get a second opinion from a shop and be iffy of what the guy is telling me. See if they will warranty it too. I'd make sure they would do that then even if you have a problem just take it back. Get it all in writing.
And don't pay with a money order. Write a check.
If they don't take a check because you are using starter checks or whatever, get your dad to write one and then you transfer the money into your dad's account. That way, if you aren't satisfied, you can stop payment.
If they don't take a check because you are using starter checks or whatever, get your dad to write one and then you transfer the money into your dad's account. That way, if you aren't satisfied, you can stop payment.
I just looked at your pics.
I think the housing is fine.
The carrier side bearings don't even rest against that chipped surface.
They fit inside that 'C' shaped area and the other 'C' shaped cap (not shown)holds the bearings in place. The preload adjuster (large circle with the big 6 sided hex in the middle, shown in picture) is what sets the carrier position.
That chipped area is minor and shouldn't effect anything. I bet it was like that from day 1.
It also isn't on the load side of the carrier anyway. The driver side carries the majority of the load during accel.
Buy a new carrier (LSD, open, locker) and have them install it.
Take your pics to the dealer and show them to the guy who does the Diffs there.
I bet he says the same thing.
The housing is FINE!
I think the housing is fine.
The carrier side bearings don't even rest against that chipped surface.
They fit inside that 'C' shaped area and the other 'C' shaped cap (not shown)holds the bearings in place. The preload adjuster (large circle with the big 6 sided hex in the middle, shown in picture) is what sets the carrier position.
That chipped area is minor and shouldn't effect anything. I bet it was like that from day 1.
It also isn't on the load side of the carrier anyway. The driver side carries the majority of the load during accel.
Buy a new carrier (LSD, open, locker) and have them install it.
Take your pics to the dealer and show them to the guy who does the Diffs there.
I bet he says the same thing.
The housing is FINE!
I took a look at the rear end and I learned something I previously didn't know... It's missing a few things so it's not complete. The passenger side bearing race cap is missing along with the bolts, the mate shaft and roll pin that lock the spider gears in place are missing, and the pinion bearing may be bad. It's a little loose so I'll check it a little more thoroughly tomorrow. I haven't taken it completely apart just yet but that's what's up. If you absolutely need it, ok, but I suggest that you save your money and use your existing setup until something causes you to replace the rear end. Roughly $400 for shipping isn't that cheap if you're going to have to add the cost of labor on top of that. If I were you, I would save the money right now and start looking into getting a brand new Dana 60 which is an upgrade as opposed to just a repair for a stock unit for the same cost if you stop paying people to do things that you yourself can easily do with a few days off and some friends willing to help.
ORIGINAL: rabbler
I just looked at your pics.
I think the housing is fine.
The carrier side bearings don't even rest against that chipped surface.
They fit inside that 'C' shaped area and the other 'C' shaped cap (not shown) holds the bearings in place. The preload adjuster (large circle with the big 6 sided hex in the middle, shown in picture) is what sets the carrier position.
That chipped area is minor and shouldn't effect anything. I bet it was like that from day 1.
It also isn't on the load side of the carrier anyway. The driver side carries the majority of the load during accel.
Buy a new carrier (LSD, open, locker) and have them install it.
Take your pics to the dealer and show them to the guy who does the Diffs there.
I bet he says the same thing.
The housing is FINE!
I just looked at your pics.
I think the housing is fine.
The carrier side bearings don't even rest against that chipped surface.
They fit inside that 'C' shaped area and the other 'C' shaped cap (not shown) holds the bearings in place. The preload adjuster (large circle with the big 6 sided hex in the middle, shown in picture) is what sets the carrier position.
That chipped area is minor and shouldn't effect anything. I bet it was like that from day 1.
It also isn't on the load side of the carrier anyway. The driver side carries the majority of the load during accel.
Buy a new carrier (LSD, open, locker) and have them install it.
Take your pics to the dealer and show them to the guy who does the Diffs there.
I bet he says the same thing.
The housing is FINE!



