Every time I look at this thread my head hurts. 01, do you really need to have three diffs??? REALLY??? is this truck that rare??? me thinks not. really if you want to go and use the free diff go for it. having a rebuild kit on hand might not be a bad idea, just incase it's a little more worn than you would like to drive with. but ATM it sounds like your going to have a garage full of diffs just because you cant take one second take a breath and ask yourself if this is really worth it. which from the sounds of it you want to throw a auburn in down the road.

I'm with HTG if you want to throw an aburn in down the road, just beg and borrow, pony up and do it now. heck of a lot less headache for everybody involved. if your really that broke, just take the free diff and hope it doesn't grenade on you in a week. (not trying to say it will) either way pick one option and stick to it.

 

I kinda have to lean towardsCySlyde.... You need one carrier. So if you buy the open for 55, the LSD for 50, that puts ya at $105 The auburn isn't that far out of your reach. If you want an LSD, do it! if you want open, do it! Pick one. Even when you get them both, which are ya gonna use?

 

I still think you should just rebuild the one that you pulled out. If your going to rebuild the free one, your already down whatever it cost to ship it.

 

Alright guys, looking like I have everything good to go to get the job done. I bought the open carrier and should be here Monday. Bought the complete bearings and seal kit from Randy's ring and pinion (good find indy), and that should be here Tuesday. Also went to VIP today and bought two 3,000 lb. jackstands, and the truck is sitting on them now. Also bought four quarts of SAE 80-W-90, that sound like the right oil? Also, should 4 quarts be enough? Then I went to the hardware store and bought the high temperature RTV gasket maker. Wow, a lot of crap I had to get, but now the job can get done right. I plan to get going on the job Tuesday and should be done by Tuesday night to Wednesday morning. I'm very excited. I just decided to go with the open carrier. If infact that housing is chipped where those tabs need to go to hold the clutchpacks in place, then I really just cannot risk screwing with an LSD. I know slomojo was giving me a great offer and nice offer at that, but without you guys seeing the housing in person, I can't be certain it will hold an LSD. Anyways, I did plan to go with a Detroit True-Trac at some point too. Those have gears, so wouldn't that void me of any uncertainy of the clutchpacks moving around and breaking again? Just want to play it safe right now and get my truck back on the road. Have everything ordered and everything I will need for the job, I am very anxtious to get started.

 

Should be smooth sailing from here... Good job on this one. You dealt well by dealing with the issue before it became a problem. Yes, you did take the truck to a shop, but you didn't give in to their demands. After learning, you now know what's going on, and your going to take on the task yourself. Just take your time, and the job will be done in a day. Sorry about giving you a hard time here and there. Sometimes I feel it's just too easy to give a guy some sheeeeit. Anyhow, congratulations on the decision to do this job on your own. It might take more time and require more effort then to take the truck to the shop but it will be a good learning experience. I hope now, you'll start to tackle all the little things that come up here and there like detailing your own truck for example... Yeah, I'm giving you some sheeeit again. sorry... One thing though, remember that proper torque and correct backlash settings are very important. Get yourself a good torque wrench, some plastiguage, and from then on it'll be smooth sailing.

If you don't have access to any books that give reference to what the proper backlash settings should be, just ask. Someone here might know, and if not, I should be able to retrieve that info from some books I've got access to at my Mom's shop.

 

For the life of me I can't think of where you would use plastiguage in a rear diff.
What am I missing?

 

Hey Neon,

I noticed you wrote High temp RTV. What you probably want is one that has the Highest oil resistance, the temps won't get that high back there.

In all honesty, it probably won't matter for this task, but in the future, think about what would fit the job best and match it up accordingly.

 

I use stuff called The Right Stuff it's what we used to use when I worked at a shop too. It seems to work well.

 

Hardee Har Har.

One of the critical measurements that must be made is setting your backlash. What is backlash? When you turn the pinion on your differential it will turn a specific amount of space before it actually contacts the the ring gear to turn your axles. If you have too little backlash the pinion is jammed into the ring gear and this will produce a lot of friction and heat and will lock up your rear axle. It will not turn freely. If you have too much backlash the pinion and ring gear will be too far apart and this will allow the gears not to mess properly and with the force of your motor will chip and destroy the teeth of the gears. This will cause excessive whining and will eventually destroy your axle again.

 

Honestly not trying to be a smart ***.

I know what you are talking about but I have never seen anyone measure backlash with anything other than a dial indicator.

Would you put a strip of plastiguage on the ring gear the rotate it against the pinion?

Typical backlash is around .006" to .010" I didn't think they made plastiguage that thick.

Not trying to criticise but I've just never seen anyone do it that way