I got my kit on ebay. Rough country 3" lift, for around 550 dollars, but I think they are now like 590 dollars. I really like this kit, the springs are very tough, and I actually netted about 4 inches of lift in the front, then for the back, it came with 1.5inch blocks, to level it out, but because I regularly tow with alot of tongue weight(1500lbs) I put a set of helper springs on it.

My pic below is before I lifted the back, so don't think I am crazy, I need to take new pictures but my truck has gotten beat up since then

 

I will say while it may not be the cheapest and there are a lot of cheaper lifts out there that are still good I love my Skyjacker lift. I don't think I'd go with any other brand. However I like my red powerder coated control arms, bumpstops, and coils better than I do the new stuff which is black.

Skyjacker imo is good but not the cheapest.

You could get a Rough County or similar like Top Gunz Customs or whatever on eBay. Or even a Rancho would probably be okay. Idk that I'd go with a Rough County but thats just me I'm sure they are a fine lift.

 

1st things 1st , get tools , lots of tools...

 

I've been looking at the 3" basic lift from FabTech. Is that no good? I can get it for like $350. So do you guys think I could run the 35" tires with the 3" lift until I can afford smaller tires? I don't really want to change the wheels though. I like the offroad edition wheels. What tire would you guys pick? I want something that will still look beefy though. I think I'm also going to take my fender flares off and see how I like it without them.

 

I don't know anything about it. Do you have a link? It's not just spacers is it?

I can't promise you wont have some rubbing with 35"s but it seems like most guys seem to be okay with 35"s if they are on the stock wheels which yours are with 3" of lift. You may rub a little at full lock but honestly I think more than likely you will be fine. You may rub at full lock but then again you may not at all. The problem is when you get 10" wide wheels and try to run 35"s with 3" of lift.


BTW I think it will look a ton better without fender flares just be prepared for rock chips behind both front and rear wheels if the tires stick out. I have them on my truck on both sides pretty bad behind both wheels on each side because the tires stick out and just throw every little rock and stone up. Especially if you go down a gravel road. Then expect rubber too if you do a burnout. I don't like the rock chips but imo these trucks look a ton better without flares.

 

The 3" Fabtech comes with 4 shocks, and 1" spacer for the front, and 2.5" black in the rear I believe. Do the other systems come with 3" coil springs in the front? I want whatever will perform and look the nicest, that's what I'm most after. Starting fresh and knowing everything is matching and healthy would make my mind really at ease lol. I think it's going to cater to the mental infatuation with having a "lift" still while also being able to do the things I like to do with the truck primarily. It would be nice if I could use the 35" tires until I could afford new tires though. Maybe if they work fine I'll stay with that tire size, but I'm pretty sure I want to go down at least one size to get more power back, better gas mileage, and better roadibility. I'm still not sure what the next tire size down I should go with though. I just want a tire that will still give the truck that lifted look. Do you guys think the truck is going to still look lifted? Anybody have pictures of a 3" lift on their truck? Is that a 3" lift on your truck hometheaterman?

 

I thought you wanted to get away from spacers? a 1" spacer in front proably won't give your truck 3" of lift total since you would take your spacer out. I'd personally spend the extra to get a kit that doesn't have the spacers. My Skyjacker kit has coils up front. So you would replace the Offroad edition coils and the spacer. You can probably sell the offroad coils for a little bit of money. For the back you don't want a kit that has blocks either. Get a kit with a Add a leaf for the rear. You already have a factory block so if you get any kit with blocks you will have to stack them which is a huge no no as they can slip apart. I'm sure you will get some retards on here that tell you it's fine probably the same ones that say they use hockey pucks as a body lift but anyone that knows what they are doing will tell you stacked blocks are unsafe as they will slip apart.

If you want to get your rear lift from a block you need to get a bigger block that is the factory height plus the size of the lift block so it's just one huge block. You can do that and be okay but I personally still think you would be better off to just get a kit with a AAL.


My truck still looks lifted. Does it look like a monster truck no but it does look pretty bike. A 3" lift would only be like 1.5" lower than what you have now and if you think about it 1.5" isn't that much. It will get about another 1" lower if you go to 33"s but still thats not a ton lower.


Yes my truck has a 3" lift with 33"s. It doesn't have the stock wheels so just picture the tires not sticking out like mine but otherwise it should look similar.


BTW since I was telling you I'd just go with a longer coil and not spacers here is what my front suspension looks like

Now unless you get a older Skyjacker kit I think Skyjacker powder coats them black instead of red now.

The Skyjacker kit also comes with lower control arms that look nice but you don't need those with just a 3" lift. You only need those with more than 3".

BTW if you get a 3" lift that comes with spacers you are going to be in the same situation as you are now. You can't use a 3" lift with spacers on your truck unless you take the offroad edition coils off and put regular model coils on. I personally would get a kit that has bigger coils like the Skyjacker to avoid all that.


If you look in my profile thats 3" of lift with 33"s.

 

Will, I guess I'm still a little confused though about the lift situation. It was my understanding that the 3" lift with the spacers would utilize the stock coil springs I have now? The truck stock has a 2" coil spring. So wouldn't adding a 1" coil spring in the front make it total of 3"? So it would be an inch taller than my truck stock? Also, I thought the blocks would replace the blocks I have now, or is that not right? What blocks do I need to make the truck match all around? I just want the truck to be a little taller than what it stock. A total of 3". I thought the 3" kit would take care of all of that? I don't mind the spacer because it's only 1". The one I have is a 3" coil spacer, and everything else on the truck is too small for that amount of lift. What size block is on the offroad edition? I didn't know the block was supposed to be stacked, I assumed it replaced the stock block and would match the 3" lift. So, I don't know what to really look for. I don't really want to spend more than $500 on a lift ya know?

** I also don't know if the guy who owned the truck before did anything to the rear. I know there is an AAL in the rear, but I can't tell if that's all he did. That 3" Fabtech kit comes with an AAL and a 2.5" block in the rear, wouldn't that make 3" in the rear? Then the 1" spacer for the front would make a total 3" in the front? Then it'd just be a matter of putting in 4 new shocks for the front and rear, right?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-...ayphotohosting

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku

What about those? Doesn't it come with everything that I will need to get the job done, and get the 3" lift?
**sorry more questions. I don't think that kit comes with AAL. Would I be able use the AAL that I have now still?

 

http://performancelifts.com/

good prices,

just fyi i have heard alot of stories of the Fabtech lift setting the front wheels out about 2 inches. Just MHO i would get something you can get the actual performance out of. If you dont do extreme mudding/playing why get 6inch lift and a body lift? I have a total of 12' on my blazer (6 ' Superlift suspension kit, 3 ' body, add-a-leaf, turned torsion bars, &flipped ball joints w/ 37' TSL boggers) and to be honest i dont need that much lift. I have replaced 3 ball joints and 1 CV axle in the 1 1/2 yrs i have owned it. Just susggesting to think it over in what is practical-even though it might look good it cost that sweet $$ too