Nevermind guys. I did a searth and I found what I needed.

Tube bender,cutter and double flair tool. Im gona get 25' of line cause who knows if another one will go. lol I think the line size is 3/16 can anyone confirm this?

 

Well I fixed the line yesterday and it was 3/16. It went pretty smooth for being my first brake line repair. lol Now I need to bleed them because the pedal will go 1/2 way to the floor before they'll grab. If its one thing I've learned from my dirtbike is its I hate bleeding brakes! Hopefully the truck will be easier! lol

 

I hate bleeding brakes on the dirtbikes too. Do you have to fill up the lines on these like you do a bike? I've never changed a line on a truck only calipers. Just remember to bleed from the furthest away from the M/C. So bleed like passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front. In that order.

 

hey jstnumber, i just cut the line from half way back and replaced that also because i didn't how to make the double flair up front, so is it hard to make the double flair? what kind of double flair tool did you get and were did go get it?? you don't mind me asking.. thank you

 

Well I went to advance auto and got all the parts for the job
Double flair tool $28
Tube bender $5
Tube cutter $10
25' 3/16 steel line $16

When I was finished I returned them clean and got my money back. The guy told me to just bring them back clean and package clean and I can get my money back. lol Im so happy total cost to repair the brake line was 16 dollars for the 25' of 3/16 steel line! Much better than the 180 i spent a month ago having someone else replace only half of it!

 

wow!! thanks for the tips and info, sounds like a got to take a trip down the advance.. thanks!!!

 

I think that my truck is doing the same thing, is it a big deal if i dont fix it right away as long as i keep an eye on my brake fluid. Cash is tight on account of me being in the process of fixing my transmission problems. I think i will end up just taking it to a dealer to fix. I really dont think i could handle dropping the gas tank in order to fix it right.

 

I believe mine is doing this because yesterday when i was under my truck changing the oil i saw that there was a fluid on the bottom of my gas tank so im just assuming that mune is doing the same thing now after reading this post? It wasnt a lot of fluid but there was definately some there

 

a couple of things you should do..
1. clean and dry the wet spot on your gas tank. then check that your brake fluid is full, and then with truck running and safe and level, have an assistant press the brake pedal about 1000 times. well maybe not a 1000, but at least 100. watch/inspect all around the gas tank and see if you've got any fluid or leaks. check your master cylinder and see if it remains full. if so, you may have some other wet spot problem, or maybe you just ran over something, or maybe you've got a u-joint or transmission seal slinging some grease.

2. if you are leaking brake fluid - any - at all - do not drive it until you fix it. your brakes operate under very high pressures. a tiny rusty pinhole leak could explode into a major failure on the very next time you use the brakes. your rears are not as critical as your fronts, but don't bet your life on it.

 

That happened to me a while back while I was on a trip. Had to limp to the nearest auto parts store and drop the tank to splice in a new line. (tubing cutter, and flaring tool are all the specialty tools you need) Other than that get two unions and your set. The tank is easy to drop. One clamp for the fill hose, and two bolts for the straps. if you have a jack handy, USE IT.