I'm wondering of you don't have a clog in the block somewhere.

 

If there is, I can't figure out how. The block was stripped bare and tanked. Like I said, I'm getting to the point I want to yank the engine and strip it all the way down, unless there's another way I can internally clean it without pulling it.

 

I agree.Like I said,temp test the trans and the fluid and see where theyre at and at least youll have a better idea.
You said the fluid is pink though and doesnt smell burnt at all so Im going to believe its ok.

 

Was talking to someone at work the other day about how my truck tends to run hot in warmer weather and won't warm up in colder weather. On Monday, December 15th, it was about 15º here in the OKC metro area, and I don't think my engine got above 170º during the 40-mile drive to work.

Anyway, I made mention that ever since I rebuilt the engine in my truck I put 50/50 pre-mix of coolant in the radiator. Every time the truck runs hot, the excess coolant blows through the overflow. Perhaps I should be running more toward 60/40 or even 70/30 in the ratio of coolant to water? Is that what could be causing my problems -- too high of a concentration of water?

 

could your clutch fan be locking up just enough to be partially engaged but not enough to cool in the summer?

 

The coolant mix has nothing to do with the water's capacity to absorb heat and carry it away to the rad. You mentioned that your truck is not drawing coolant back into the radiator from the surge tank. The only thing that can stop that would be a stuck valve in the radiator cap.

 

Nope. I replaced that earlier last year and it works fine.

 

Could the problem be the temperature readout? My '96 gage ran high 30 deg F.
Most radiator shops have an infrared device that will measure the water temp and at operating temp the radiator inlet should agree with your thermostat (190 deg F).
Also, many repair shops have scanner that connects to the OBDII connector that will give the water temperature that is passed to the computer. It is different sensor than the readout sensor and should agree with temp gage.
From the '96 Ram service manual. Temp sensor connector disconnected. Resistance substituted in place of temp sensor located on the intake manifold passenger side fwd.
Temperature gage calibration
pointer low normal 361.7 ohms
pointer hi normal 77 ohms

 

Temp sensor is fine.

 

The stuff on either side of my radiator is torn/missing. I still think this affects my truck's ability to control the temp of the coolant; otherwise, why is it there?