It is there to keep crap out of the engine compartment. It certainly isn't going to make it overheat.

And actually, not having it there is only going to add to the flow of air to help cool it even more.

 

Nothing like resurrecting the Dead

A few weeks ago, after having the transmission rebuilt in my truck and an external coolers installed, I noted that my truck still had a tendency to run hot. The tech at the transmission shop recommended a product called "30 Below" to be added to the radiator. The FLAPS didn't have any, but they had another product one of the counter techs recommended as he's a member of a racing team and he stated this product is used in the race engines. Also, he asked what my mixture of water to coolant was, which I stated was straight 50/50 from the pre-mix bottle. Seems that's too high on the coolant and he recommended I add more water (distilled, of course) to the system.

Well dammit, it works. The coolant additive and increasing the amount of water has helped keep the temp stable. I still have instances of it running a bit hot, which I attribute to the fact that it needs more water.

Hopefully, this helps someone else in the future.

 

Hey man, where ya been? Glad it's working for you. I have to say though, there still has to be some other underlying problem causing it in the first place. There are times I have run straight AF and times I have run straight water in different vehicles, and didn't have that prob.

 

Transmission guys said I the timing could be too far advanced and that I need to adjust it. I explained to them that the Dodge timing is controlled by the PCM and can't be adjusted. As the guy at the FLAPS said, the coolant holds heat, so here, in Oklahoma, the higher ratio of coolant isn't going to be good. I can tell you that on the 100º days she's not spitting coolant out of the reservoir as she did last year.

 

I hear ya, but there are guys on here (and countless others with Rams)that live in hot environments like yours too, that don't have that prob. I think there is a very small leak in a head gasket (or cracked head or block)to cause that amount of pressure. I think you should try the block sealer that is sold, and see what happens. I would. I would also by pass the heater core for a while so it doesn't clogged up, should you do decide to try it. If it works, you know there is a problem internally.

 

Problem is, the truck runs too smooth for it to be either a cracked block or a bad head gasket. I doubt it's a cracked head since they were replaced with beefier aftermarket heads when I rebuilt the engine.

 

You can eliminate the heads hopefully, but not the gaskets.

 

Well, talking to the machine shop after the transmission rebuild about the endplay on the crank let to two solutions. I can end up peening a bearing which *may* help -- or I'll end up yanking the engine. I don't want to do that until I get my Beetle running (which shouldn't be long) and after I get moved. But if I have to yank the engine due to replacing the crank and mains, then I'll tear her all the way down to see WTF.

 

Never mind removing the motor. Just the top half first. Not much more work than doing the plenum if you think about it.

 

And I hate thinking about it!