Save yourself some money. Go get a hydrometer and test the electrolyte SG. If it's low, then take the battery to service station or auto-electric place and have it deep charged until the SG is good. You can't really troubleshoot one of these modern electrical systems with a discharged or bad battery.

 

if the battery is good... it also sounds like a bad Distributor Cap or Rotor.

 

Update:

I drove the truck for about 80 miles and the problem still persists. The instrument panel shows the battery as having more than 14V power.

The stalling seems to occur when I let off the gas too fast. If the RPMs drop too suddenly, they'll go down to zero and the truck stalls. If I give a little tap on the throttle as the RPMs are dropping, it seems to keep from stalling.

 

Well, if you feel that the battery is in good condition, then start checking the ignition and fuel systems. If you don't have a factory service manual, Haynes manual, etc., I strongly suggest that you get one.

 

Hello,
Nice try guys but I have experienced exactly this issue. After my 1994 1500 4x4 5.2L was serviced at a Dodge dealership I drove a few blocks and the truck stalled at a traffic light. It wanted to stall at idle or deceleration. When I got back to the dealership the tech "reprogrammed" the computer. No problems since then. They had disconnected the battery during servicing and some modified programming had been lost. Since the dealership knew exactly what to do I suggest getting your truck to yours and have the same done. I have not found out what parameters they changed but if I do I will post it! Good Luck!

 

So if a reprogramming is needed is this gonna cost me a bundle, and will it happen everytime the battery is disconnected?

 

here's what i think. if you can keep the truck running by keeping slight pressure on the gas pedal at about 1000 rpm, while braking with your left, then you have a bad IAC which can be replaced for $40-50. as far as rebel1's dealership reprogramming issue, they probably forgot to plug in the iac and made up that story because it sounded better. i've disconnected my battery a 100 times w/o losing any permanent programming. i've also replaced my iac several times because they go bad and/or i get bad new ones from the parts store.

 

Ok, I plead ignorance here... What's an IAC?

 

The IAC is the Idle Air Control valve, it's the black round thing located on the back of the throttle body.

 

when your foot is completely off the gas, then the throttle plate closes up, and no air can get past. the iac is a port and valve that bypasses the closed plate. the amount it opens is controlled by the computer, and determines the idle speed, which is about 1000 rpm at cold idle and 600 at warm. the iac is a little stepper motor with a pintle on the end. when the pintle runs in, it closes up the air port. when it runs out, it opens it up. when it screws up, the truck won't idle right. as a test - when you lay your foot on the gas pedal and open up the plate a little, then the engine gets air through the open plate and the iac becomes meaningless.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/140607-why-does-the-iac-fail-so-frequently.html