2001 Ram 1500 Tranny Problems
#11
The inside of the pan looked fine. The fluid was nice and pink, and there was no gunk on the bottom of the pan. The magnet had some crud on it, but it didn't seem like an incredible amount to me.
I tried unhooking the battery overnight, to see if it would somehow reset the check engine light, and when I started it this morning, the light came right back on. Wishful thinking, I know. Thanks for all the help, everyone.
I tried unhooking the battery overnight, to see if it would somehow reset the check engine light, and when I started it this morning, the light came right back on. Wishful thinking, I know. Thanks for all the help, everyone.
#12
#13
#14
I had the exact same problem 3 years ago in my truck.
Stop throwing parts at it. First of all the govenor is stuck. Most times it's a tiny bit of metal in the workings of it, or clutch material in the govenor that causes it to stick. To fix it, pull the tail housing, take the govenor off & clean it real well. Then reassemble/reinstall. It should work fine then.
The problem is about every 2500-3500 miles your going to have to do this again. I spent the money & had the trans rebuilt by a local company. They made some mods in the valve body & upped the line pressures a bit. I've got over 60K on the rebuild with no signs of problems since the rebuild.
Call a trans shop & describe the problem & possible fix. They may be able to tell you if this is the problem. They also have a tester that can test the line pressure going to the govenor to verify it. My trans shop has rebuilt several transmissions for me & I've never had a problem with any they have fixed. Just remember, they want the job, so they may be pushing to rebuilt when it may or may not be needed.
Stop throwing parts at it. First of all the govenor is stuck. Most times it's a tiny bit of metal in the workings of it, or clutch material in the govenor that causes it to stick. To fix it, pull the tail housing, take the govenor off & clean it real well. Then reassemble/reinstall. It should work fine then.
The problem is about every 2500-3500 miles your going to have to do this again. I spent the money & had the trans rebuilt by a local company. They made some mods in the valve body & upped the line pressures a bit. I've got over 60K on the rebuild with no signs of problems since the rebuild.
Call a trans shop & describe the problem & possible fix. They may be able to tell you if this is the problem. They also have a tester that can test the line pressure going to the govenor to verify it. My trans shop has rebuilt several transmissions for me & I've never had a problem with any they have fixed. Just remember, they want the job, so they may be pushing to rebuilt when it may or may not be needed.
#15
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: North Charleston, SC
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I had the exact same problem 3 years ago in my truck.
Stop throwing parts at it. First of all the govenor is stuck. Most times it's a tiny bit of metal in the workings of it, or clutch material in the govenor that causes it to stick. To fix it, pull the tail housing, take the govenor off & clean it real well. Then reassemble/reinstall. It should work fine then.
The problem is about every 2500-3500 miles your going to have to do this again. I spent the money & had the trans rebuilt by a local company. They made some mods in the valve body & upped the line pressures a bit. I've got over 60K on the rebuild with no signs of problems since the rebuild.
Call a trans shop & describe the problem & possible fix. They may be able to tell you if this is the problem. They also have a tester that can test the line pressure going to the govenor to verify it. My trans shop has rebuilt several transmissions for me & I've never had a problem with any they have fixed. Just remember, they want the job, so they may be pushing to rebuilt when it may or may not be needed.
Stop throwing parts at it. First of all the govenor is stuck. Most times it's a tiny bit of metal in the workings of it, or clutch material in the govenor that causes it to stick. To fix it, pull the tail housing, take the govenor off & clean it real well. Then reassemble/reinstall. It should work fine then.
The problem is about every 2500-3500 miles your going to have to do this again. I spent the money & had the trans rebuilt by a local company. They made some mods in the valve body & upped the line pressures a bit. I've got over 60K on the rebuild with no signs of problems since the rebuild.
Call a trans shop & describe the problem & possible fix. They may be able to tell you if this is the problem. They also have a tester that can test the line pressure going to the govenor to verify it. My trans shop has rebuilt several transmissions for me & I've never had a problem with any they have fixed. Just remember, they want the job, so they may be pushing to rebuilt when it may or may not be needed.
There is NO governor on a 46RE. Thats what the Gov. pressure solenoid and sensor are for. Also dont call a trans shop, with the slow economy they will push a rebuild on you. (At least most of the shops around here are.)
#16
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: North Charleston, SC
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Thats why he is pushing parts and not under the hood.
FIRST. Check the engine codes again and find out which code it is, BEFORE you go throwing parts at it.
Ive seen hundreds of RE transmissions that just need these two pieces to be fine. Most shops will try and sell you a rebuild when they know damn good and well that if they just replace the sensor and solenoid, everything will be A-OK.
#17
#18
Ok, so the solenoid and sensor are 2 seperate peices? I can't post a picture of the old part as I don't have a digital camera. So I replaced the solenoid, where is the sensor located? Everything looked clean, new almost, when I took the trans pan off. For all I know, it was rebuilt before I bought it, I did buy used after all. I guess I'm going to have to redo the whole thing, but it still beats buying a new transmission.
#19
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Ok, so the solenoid and sensor are 2 seperate peices? I can't post a picture of the old part as I don't have a digital camera. So I replaced the solenoid, where is the sensor located? Everything looked clean, new almost, when I took the trans pan off. For all I know, it was rebuilt before I bought it, I did buy used after all. I guess I'm going to have to redo the whole thing, but it still beats buying a new transmission.
The solenoid sticks straight down from that block its in, the sensor sits off to the side in the same block. The sensor sits close to the solenoid.
But scan it again and get the code that is stored in memory.
#20
Well, I replaced the sensor, unhooked the battery for about 10 minutes to clear the code (I'm not sure If I had to do that, but I figured it couldn't hurt), and the check engine light is gone and the truck runs like a champ again! Thanks to everyone for your help, especially MonteC, you guys saved me a lot of aggravation and money, thats for sure!
Last edited by Bob5151; 09-06-2008 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Spelling error