JP, never heard of gelled trans fluid, and we get that cold up here....sure, it's a little crabby, but what isn't at -45...idle in neutral for a few mins and she's good to go. Only thing i could think of is that if you didn't leave your factory heat exchanger/cooler (the one in the rad) in the trans cooling circuit you could be keeping your fluid too cold. It was made clear to me by a few trans guys that the factory cooler should be left in the circuit in order to keep the fluid warm enough in winter.

 

Youve got the right idea.

Its not a pwm solenoid though. Pwm stands for PULSE WIDTH MODULATED, those are mostly used on lock up solenoids or when how an apply feels (lock up) is a concern for the customer.

It gives the computer a large majority control over the shifting, the TV pressure side is still hydraulic but the governor side (the upshift side) is computer controlled. Unlike the old RH units where a mechanical governor controlled fluid pressure for the upshift side.

 

+1
even more so if you have a deep pan

 

Ok, I know what PWM is, was under the impression that it was used with the gov solenoid in order to give control over the pressure being applied (so's as to be not on/off but more variable), which I thought you would want in order to simulate the mechanical governor pressure...

 

PWM and variable pressure are not the same thing. Dont confuse them.

The governor pressure solenoid creates variable pressure. Its like an EPC, basically thats what it is. But it does not create a pulse. The governor pressure solenoid is not an on/off solenoid, those are usually shift solenoids.

 

Somebody did a trans check valve delete thread around here about 2 months or so ago. Now, who was that guy...?

 

And why isn't it in the DIY section?

 

Yeah, Ive got the off road ed. with the big *** cooler in the front. There is actually a mod sold at the dealers up in Alaska that is a line that you put on to just bypass your cooler. Last year it didnt happen when I had just started the truck, I lost it after driving down the highway and then idling for a while. I ended up just blocking off the entire front to hold the heat in and it solved the problem. Talking to the dealers they said they have actually seen guys burn up the tranny letting it idle for long periods of time with the big trans cooler I have.

 

Interesting....When I added my cooler I considered putting in bypass/blockoff valving for the aux cooler, but never did. Maybe I will after all, it has been tough to keep things warm enough to enable OD (although I'm not sure whether it's the batt temp or the trans temp). 4.56's with no OD is hard on fuel on a 650mi trip (about how far it is to get ANYWHERE whatsoever from here. lol).

 

How do you burn up a trans with a cooler? I thought that was the whole point of installing
one, so you didn't burn it up. I think I need that explained in more depth. What size cooler
are you running?