Reverse lights
Veteran
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: San Angelo,Texas
mine arent working either i just got the truck a lil while back... so i dnt know how long they have been out but here in tx u dnt need them to pass inspection... but i want them fixed i was told to try replacin the neutral saftey switch
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins Colorado
Nice ride! how do you like the headlight lenses?
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins Colorado
no reverse lights
I have had the same problem since I bought the truck. They used to work a little with a wiggle of the shifter arm, but now there is nothing. Has anyone had experience fixing this issue? I remember reading in the manual how to fix it, but when I got under the truck, I couldnt see what they were talking about.
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
first, check the fuse, then the bulbs.
if no power to the rear lamps, then replace the 'reverse/neutral switch' on the side of the transmission. its in a hard to get to place, on drivers side, up near the front, behind the linkage. it has an electrical connector thats has a clip on it. 3 wires. if the clip is on the top, its hard as hell to get off. you have to slide a flat screwdriver up under the clip, from the back, in order to lift if off the peg. if you ever get the connector off, then the switch just unscrews. its available from autozone for about $25. if the electrical connector is full of dirt, try cleaning the contacts and plug with wd40 before you replace the swtich. also, if you remove the switch, see if the inside can be cleaned to make it work again.
if no power to the rear lamps, then replace the 'reverse/neutral switch' on the side of the transmission. its in a hard to get to place, on drivers side, up near the front, behind the linkage. it has an electrical connector thats has a clip on it. 3 wires. if the clip is on the top, its hard as hell to get off. you have to slide a flat screwdriver up under the clip, from the back, in order to lift if off the peg. if you ever get the connector off, then the switch just unscrews. its available from autozone for about $25. if the electrical connector is full of dirt, try cleaning the contacts and plug with wd40 before you replace the swtich. also, if you remove the switch, see if the inside can be cleaned to make it work again.
you know i never really looked until now, I went out and checked and sure as **** my reverse lights dont work either, checked both bulbs and the fuse and nothings bad hmm might have to do some looking
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH
The center terminal of the park/neutral position
switch is the starter-circuit terminal. It provides the
ground for the starter solenoid circuit through the
selector lever in PARK and NEUTRAL positions only.
The outer terminals on the switch are for the backup
lamp circuit.
SWITCH TEST
To test the switch, remove the wiring connector.
Test for continuity between the center terminal and
the transmission case. Continuity should exist only
when the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL.
Shift the transmission into REVERSE and test
continuity at the switch outer terminals. Continuity
should exist only when the transmission is in
REVERSE. Continuity should not exist between the
outer terminals and the case.
Check gearshift linkage adjustment before replacing
a switch that tests faulty.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and position drain pan under
switch.
(2) Disconnect switch wires.
(3) Remove switch from case.
INSTALLATION
(1) Move shift lever to PARK and NEUTRAL positions.
Verify that switch operating lever fingers are
centered in switch opening in case (Fig. 187).
(2) Install new seal on switch and install switch in
case. Tighten switch to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Test continuity of new switch with 12V test
lamp.
(4) Connect switch wires and lower vehicle.
The center terminal of the park/neutral position
switch is the starter-circuit terminal. It provides the
ground for the starter solenoid circuit through the
selector lever in PARK and NEUTRAL positions only.
The outer terminals on the switch are for the backup
lamp circuit.
SWITCH TEST
To test the switch, remove the wiring connector.
Test for continuity between the center terminal and
the transmission case. Continuity should exist only
when the transmission is in PARK or NEUTRAL.
Shift the transmission into REVERSE and test
continuity at the switch outer terminals. Continuity
should exist only when the transmission is in
REVERSE. Continuity should not exist between the
outer terminals and the case.
Check gearshift linkage adjustment before replacing
a switch that tests faulty.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and position drain pan under
switch.
(2) Disconnect switch wires.
(3) Remove switch from case.
INSTALLATION
(1) Move shift lever to PARK and NEUTRAL positions.
Verify that switch operating lever fingers are
centered in switch opening in case (Fig. 187).
(2) Install new seal on switch and install switch in
case. Tighten switch to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Test continuity of new switch with 12V test
lamp.
(4) Connect switch wires and lower vehicle.
