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Brakes Burn Hot on Dodges?

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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #31  
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brakes are the same size but are slotted and dimpled to allow brake gases to vent. This restores full contact with the pads and therefore stops you sooner
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #32  
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gotta ask to be sure, Did any dodges come with rear discs from the factory from 1994-2001?

I have a 2001, with the dual piston. Just had my front rotors and rear drums turned, and new autozone duralast ceramic pads put in. Stops on a dime. lol
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 01:20 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dsertdog56
I realize this is an old thread but perhaps I could make a suggestion or two.

You could probably change over to 2000 up front brakes if you get the proper rotors and if you can bolt the caliper mounting rail to your hub.
After doing so, you will immediatly notice your brakes are no better than your old ones.

After going through several sets of pads...and I use H.D. Raybestos "Super stop" pads because they WILL stop my truck, I descovered a simple secret that improves my braking exponentialy. Here it is.

About every other oil change which (for me) occurs every 3 months or 3000 miles, I crawl under my rear bumper and pull the adjusting star covers off the backing plates. After popping off the rubber covers, I use a flashlight and screwdriver to check the rear brake adjustment.
It is amazing how many turns it will take sometimes to take out the slack. In fact, I can usually tell by my braking when I need to do it.
Now you can certainly spend a ton of money updating to uber trick pads and rotors, but all you're really doing is masking the issue.
Seriously...check your rears, before blaming your fronts. Oh, and if you're gone through 2sets of pads and haven't touched your rears, that should be a clue.
I'm on my 4th set of pads to my set of rears that still have a lot less. I also have the 2001 with the dual piston calipers up front. I keep my rears adjusted properly and I still burn though front brakes quickly. The brakes on these trucks just suck.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 01:21 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 2001Ram
gotta ask to be sure, Did any dodges come with rear discs from the factory from 1994-2001?

I have a 2001, with the dual piston. Just had my front rotors and rear drums turned, and new autozone duralast ceramic pads put in. Stops on a dime. lol
Yes in the middle of the 2001 year run they switched to rear disks. I wish I had the rear disks but my truck was made a few months earlier before they switched to using them. Mine is a early 01 model.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 01:23 AM
  #35  
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Well WTF? My truck was made in July of 2001 and I have freakin drums!!! I want a refund lol
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by hometheaterman
I'm on my 4th set of pads to my set of rears that still have a lot less. I also have the 2001 with the dual piston calipers up front. I keep my rears adjusted properly and I still burn though front brakes quickly. The brakes on these trucks just suck.
Sorry to read that sir...my truck stops on a dime and gives you .08 in change. I'd say if you burnt through 4 sets of pads to one rear its not the fronts...your rears aren't working.
Tell you what guys...if you can push your emergency brake pedal at least halfway to the floor (or more) before your truck will hold on an incline.. Or will hold but the truck moves forward when you press the gas pedal, your rears are adjusted too soft.
I'd love to agree that the brakes suck, but I've owned a few Mopars in my time and brake adjustment has been crucial to braking quality. After reminding myself of that and taking tools in hand my issues disappeared.
Again, I'd love to complain, but at this point, I'd have to say...don't tailgate me.
 

Last edited by dsertdog56; Dec 7, 2009 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #37  
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Wow! I read through all of this and all I can say is that if you're going through brakes at that rate then you may want to review your driving habits. I upgraded my 1997 to the ¾-ton rear cylinders and my truck stops damned well. Well enough that when I panic stop the wheels bark.

Also, IMHO, getting your drums and rotors turned is one of the worse courses of action to take. After-market rotors are better than stock as they are thicker.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dsertdog56
Sorry to read that sir...my truck stops on a dime and gives you .08 in change. I'd say if you burnt through 4 sets of pads to one rear its not the fronts...your rears aren't working.
Tell you what guys...if you can push your emergency brake pedal at least halfway to the floor (or more) before your truck will hold on an incline.. Or will hold but the truck moves forward when you press the gas pedal, your rears are adjusted too soft.
I'd love to agree that the brakes suck, but I've owned a few Mopars in my time and brake adjustment has been crucial to braking quality. After reminding myself of that and taking tools in hand my issues disappeared.
Again, I'd love to complain, but at this point, I'd have to say...don't tailgate me.
Nope my rears are working. I can't figure out why the front brakes wont last more than 24-25k miles and the rears still have life left. I have them adjusted properly and they are working.
 
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