Title says it all...I had new rotors, pads, drum cleaning and brake flush done about 2 months ago. Little lady been driving it in the city but last weekend I took it out for scouting/hunting.

By the end of day of driving steep terrain and of course going down my brakes were stinking the whole time and at the end felt like jello. Meaning I had to plan to when I wanted to stop.

Once they cooled all seemed fine. BTW I have an auto but I did gear shift down to 1st on the steepest parts. That what I normally do to save brakes.

I did return to the place that did the work...complained and they bleed the lines again and placed different pads that made of different material. They said if I continue to have problems they suggest slotted rotors...ideas? feeling? comments?

 

I have a 98 also, the brakes on these up until 2001 (or 2000) were bad. In 2000 or 2001 they upgraded them, and by doing so increased the towing capacity. I hate my brakes, and have been loooking for an upgrade solution that doesn't cost big $$. They make a "big caliper kit" but thats almost $800 or more. http://www.pavementsucks.com/showcase/bigcaliper.php
So back to your question, do they run hot? I haven't over heated mine, but it feels like it wouldn't take much to heat them up if I was towing.

Drilled rotors tend to crack if you work them hard from towing, and slotted rotors are the best solution, but have heard they can create some noise. (think stopping is more important than a little whirling sound).
I have seen a solution to the drilled rotors cracking, instead of drilling all the way through, they just make "dimples" instead, helping the rotor maintain its strength.

I have been trying to find out if calipers and rotors will fit from the upgraded 2000 Rams to 98. No one has been able to answer that question, not even a Dodge Garage.

Also, not sure what material your brake pads are made of, but ceramic is my choice.

 

What you were experiencing was brake fade due to overheating (obviously). How much gear did you haul on this trip? In the big rig world you see this alot and its usually due to being overloaded, brakes out of adjustment (were the rears still looking ok, pad wise and adjustment wise?), or over use of the brakes.

In steep conditions I suggest (especially if you're hauling or towing) to employ the same technique for braking that I use in my tractor/trailer. Do not ride the brakes, brake in sequences where you slow the rig down to about 5-10mph below safe speed and then let speed slowly come back up without using the brakes, when you approach the safe speed again use the brakes to slow about 5-10mph below again (and repeat). In a pickup I'd also try and use the engine to assist as much as possible. This will allow your brakes a brief chance to cool down slightly each sequence instead of constantly being heated.

And, if this is going to be a normal environment for your vehicle, upgrades never hurt.

 

You can also shift info 4 low (assuming you are on gravel/dirt roads) for improved engine braking...

 

The brakes on these trucks aren't adequate in my opinion.
I've scared myself a few times.

 

You could have a caliper hangin up/binding.

 

I was shifting down to 1st gear..had them replace the brake pads with ones of different material. Not towing anything just a lot of steep down terrain...didn't think I was riding it but maybe I was.

Thank for advice all.

 

I have a 99, V10, 4X4, 8800 GVW that used to eat front brake pads left and right. I tried several different brands and different materials of pads. One of the last sets I had were some (not so cheap) semi metalic pads on stock rotors. Tore the linning clean off one of the pads after only about 6 months street use. This (of course) took out a rotor, and almost the car in front of me at the time it happened.

The pads I have now are ceramic and have been on for about 2 years now. They stop the truck great hot or cold, and when I rotated my tires the other day I noticed that they don't even look worn. I also installed a set of the slotted rotors at the same time. The combination of the slotted rotors and ceramic pads seems to have cured my brake problems.
Oh yeah, far less brake dust on the wheels with ceramic pads too.

 

you guys are so on... this brakes suck! I also employ the down shift method when coming to a stop... shift out of overdrive as well when my speed is below 55mph.... but i will be surprised if these thing held up under an emergency stop.. like if someone cuts you off? Is there any kind of recall or anything like that?

 

I'm actually kind of suprised you all have issues with yours, I can pretty easily lock up my 35's with stock replacement pads and rotors.

One thing to always check when you do a replacement rotor is that you clean the rotor's braking surface with brake cleaner, most rotors come coated with an anti-rust coating that needs to be removed. If you don't, your pads will glaze and not work very well.

Maybe this is the cause of some of you guys' issues?