In reality, I think that number in the manual is a bare minimum. Especially if it misfires enough to trigger a CEL at 140.

 

If I am going to use the shop, it would be a full house. My uncle is restoring a John Deere, Rebuilding a motor on a Internatinal Harvester(tractor), and he keeps his F-350's in there(he has 3). Obviously, he is a Ford guy, and 2 Dodges in his garage would be, well, you know.

 

Showing him what a *real truck* is?

 

Ah who needs all them numbers anyway. Just rip that **** apart that's what I did lol. Kinda glad I did in a why

 

You will need a regular sized compressor. Something that can put out 150 psi or above.

An adapter to connect the compressor hose to the spark plug hole. NAPA and some of the better auto parts stores sell these.

Remove the passenger side valve cover. Now is a good time to check for a broken valve spring on #2 or #4. Some on this forum have mentioned this happening to them.

First find TDC @ #1. The Haynes manual has a good write-up on doing this (pg. 2A-4 in my manual). Once you have TDC @ #1, you can rotate the crank bolt clockwise (as you face it) to TDC for any piston by simply following the firing order and counting each 90 degree mark on the balancer. The main TDC mark on my balancer is cut all the way across the balancer while the 90 degree marks are cut about halfway. Check to make sure that both rockers for the cylinder are all the way up. This will be the compression stroke.

Once you have TDC @ #4 or #2 (last in firing order), install the compressor hose Q-D male end into the spark plug hole adapter, and install the adapter in hole to be tested.

Connect the hose Q-D to the adapter and crank up the pressure as high as it will go.

Listen for air escaping at the different places I told you before. If it's the dreaded crack between the valve seats, then it may be blowing out the intake, exhaust, or both. You will definitely hear it or even feel it.

Let us know what you come across.

 

Well, with those compression #s, it has to be something internal. I usually never have nutin' to do all winter, so this will be fun.

 

BlueBeast2 and tdrex-Do you have any pics of the cracked valve seat, for reference when I tear it down.

tdrex-Do i have to take the belt off?

 

No need to take the belt off, but stand away from the fan belt and fan when you apply the air pressure. If you are not quite on TDC, then the engine may rotate suddenly when the piston is forced to the bottom of its bore.

I could try and take a pic of mine, but it's so tiny I don't think is would show up.

 

Well, I got it fixed.

Changed #2 & 4 spark plug wires w/ones frm my S10. Ive driven it about 200 miles w/o a problem so far.

I have MSD Street Fires coming in on Tuesday.

 

Awesome! Let's hope it stays that way.