Cyl 2 & 4 misfire
tdrex-I have been reading some of your treads. You say that the spark plug on the misfire cyl was a bitch to get out. When i pulled my plugs last night, the #2 was a total bitch to get out.
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head w/o taking the motor apart?
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head w/o taking the motor apart?
tdrex-I have been reading some of your treads. You say that the spark plug on the misfire cyl was a bitch to get out. When i pulled my plugs last night, the #2 was a total bitch to get out.
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head(w/o taking the motor out)?
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head(w/o taking the motor out)?

Are you certain the plug wires are routed correctly? What about the injectors?
tdrex-I have been reading some of your treads. You say that the spark plug on the misfire cyl was a bitch to get out. When i pulled my plugs last night, the #2 was a total bitch to get out.
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head w/o taking the motor apart?
Also, are there any visual signs of a cracked head w/o taking the motor apart?
If you have a borescope, you might be able to find the crack in the combustion chamber. Since most people don't have one of those laying around, then the next best thing is to pressurize the cylinder and determine where the air is leaking from (leakdown test).
Pull ALL of the plugs. You do not want your starter fighting against the compression of 7 cylinders while you are checking one.
Prop open the TB as wide as it will go, or just remove it all together.
Pull the fuel pump relay to disable the pump.
I use a remote starter switch tied into the starter solenoid wire near the fuse/relay box. That way, I don't have to keep running back and forth to the ign switch.
Start testing at #1 (left bank) or #2 (right bank), but make sure you test one bank at a time. Let the cylinder pump the gauge up as high as it will go (no more than 4 to 6 strokes).
Write down the PSI reading for each cylinder. If you find a low one, test the cylinder next to it. If it is equally low as well, it might be because of head gasket. A low cylinder can be caused by several different things. You could have a burnt exhaust valve, worn out rings, or a crack through the intake seat like I had. Squirting about 2 shots of oil into a low cylinder will temporarily give you a better seal on the rings and valves, but if most of your cylinders give good pressure, then it is most likely not the rings, but the valve/crack.
Once you have all your results, post them and we will go from there.
Prop open the TB as wide as it will go, or just remove it all together.
Pull the fuel pump relay to disable the pump.
I use a remote starter switch tied into the starter solenoid wire near the fuse/relay box. That way, I don't have to keep running back and forth to the ign switch.
Start testing at #1 (left bank) or #2 (right bank), but make sure you test one bank at a time. Let the cylinder pump the gauge up as high as it will go (no more than 4 to 6 strokes).
Write down the PSI reading for each cylinder. If you find a low one, test the cylinder next to it. If it is equally low as well, it might be because of head gasket. A low cylinder can be caused by several different things. You could have a burnt exhaust valve, worn out rings, or a crack through the intake seat like I had. Squirting about 2 shots of oil into a low cylinder will temporarily give you a better seal on the rings and valves, but if most of your cylinders give good pressure, then it is most likely not the rings, but the valve/crack.
Once you have all your results, post them and we will go from there.







