They may just come right off. And you can also use a large C clamp to retract them before you unbolt them. Before reassembly make sure the slides where the calipers contact the steering knuckles are both clean , and the slide pins themselves move freely. Use a good lubricant.

 

^^ Yeah, I've done the C-Clamp trick. Leave the one pad in there so the piston is square in the bore. (HA HA Round piston square in the bore!)

 

What you are saying is after the caliper is off. I use the c clamp before trying to remove the caliper. Only because if they are really worn (the rotors)and there is a major high spot around the outer part of the rotor, the caliper ain't comin' off unless they are retracted first. Kinda like drums if you catch my drift.

 

^^ You're wierd

I unbolt the caliper and use a massive ball peen hammer to knock it loose. Then, I use the clamp or the disc brake tool to push the piston back *AFTER* I've removed the lid from the reservoir .

Contrary to popular belief, rotors should never, ever be turned. You want as much meat there as possible. If there are concentric grooves in the surface they are no big deal. My dad was an engineer for many years, and the brake experts at Ford told him that theoretically the grooves prove MORE braking surface. The pads will wear into the groove(s) with no problem.

 

LOL! I do it that way because 99% of the time I'm reusing all the brake parts because I'm replacing the hub/bearing or the freakin' u joints. So I don't want to f up the pads or rotors by using a BFH! LOL