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1.7RR install

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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by zman17
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After tightening them by hand first and making sure everything was lined up properly, I did 12lbs and checked everything again, before the final 21lb torque.
I thought I read somewhere that is was best to rotate the engine so that the cam lobes were low allowing the the rocker to be installed without compressing the valve spring. That slightly prevented me from considering the 1.7RR - lazy,huh?
Sounds like you were able to install the 1.7's without turning the engine. Did you just take the factory rockers off in pairs and install the 1.7's? Was it tricky to torque the rockers that had to compress some valves?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #52  
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The guy that wrote the PS article had to turn over the engine because his allen socket couldn't clear the tops of the rockers on some of the TDC and BDC cylinders. If you have the longer allen sockets, it's not an issue.

The old rockers and new rockers both install in pairs. One for the intake valve, one for exhaust valve, 16 total. You don't need the pushrod guide plates with the new roller rockers as the connecting bar on the roller rockers will prevent them from turning on the stud.
 

Last edited by aim4squirrels; Jan 2, 2009 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:26 PM
  #53  
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aim4squirrels,
thanks for jogging my memory.
I don't "need" the 1.7's but I'm having trouble saying no.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:32 PM
  #54  
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no, no, you need them, you NEED them...
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #55  
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wow...now i need to decide...1.7s....4.10s...or new TQ and shift kit....

lol I can only buy one...

thanks for makin my decision harder lol
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 01:11 AM
  #56  
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They look like fun how much time do you have invested in putting them on? And is there any other parts that you need. I was looking at these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
They are like the ones you got. What about the springs do you have to compress them so that you can get them back on or is there something else holding them on. What did you pay for them and over all how hard was it to put on. Why didnt you replace your valve cover gasket should you have?
 

Last edited by dodge15004x45.9; Jan 3, 2009 at 01:19 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 05:02 AM
  #57  
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talked to john mercedes at southeast last night on the phone. he's the guy that helped develope these rockers in 98. super nice guy and very helpful. he told me that if i have any questions while i am installing them just call and he would walk me through it.

he said it doesnt matter if you change the oil or not. but i will be anyway, because its time.

he also said make sure and take the guide plates off.some people donnt. and he said that you should.

he also said to make sure and not to torque them over 21lbs. a couple guys in his club tried to go with 30lbs and and cracked them. so donnt over tighten them.he told me that twice. he said he just wanted to make sure i knew it.

he said i should expect about 15-20 rwhp with the stuff i have done. and if its the only mod you have 10-15rwhp. and with the more mods you have, he has seen up to 27 rwhp on the dyno. the 27rwhp was on a dodge dakota rt supercharged, bigger tb,headers,and a couple other things.
 

Last edited by talon6; Jan 3, 2009 at 05:08 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 05:05 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by dodge15004x45.9
They look like fun how much time do you have invested in putting them on? And is there any other parts that you need. I was looking at these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
They are like the ones you got. What about the springs do you have to compress them so that you can get them back on or is there something else holding them on. What did you pay for them and over all how hard was it to put on. Why didnt you replace your valve cover gasket should you have?
link no workee.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 06:18 AM
  #59  
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It took about 2 hours and would have been less time had the right side VC bolts not been rusted. I spent atleast a half hour on that side fooling with those damn things.

And I didn't have to rotate the motor, a couple were close, but I think the motor just happened to shut down in a good spot.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 06:41 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by lv360ram
I thought I read somewhere that is was best to rotate the engine so that the cam lobes were low allowing the the rocker to be installed without compressing the valve spring. That slightly prevented me from considering the 1.7RR - lazy,huh?
Sounds like you were able to install the 1.7's without turning the engine. Did you just take the factory rockers off in pairs and install the 1.7's? Was it tricky to torque the rockers that had to compress some valves?
Your prolly thinkin of a solid cam. With those you have to rotate the engine on each valve, get on the low spot on the cam, and adjust the valve lash. Hey, how much you want for the TB????
 
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