Talon,

I'm sorry I didn't get to this thread earlier to help you out.

You don't need "stage 8 super-D-duper locking bolts." There might be a few spots you can't even squeeze the locks into the space provided (depends on the header). Just regular old grade 8 bolts from the hardware store the correct length will work. Hopefully you didn't overpay for them.

When you take the manifolds off, you'll have a few studs left in the heads. You'll probably need a pair of Vise Grips to work them out. And I suggest you start hitting the manifolds early and often with PB blaster. Pay special attention to the studs (those are the ones with the nuts on the outside of the manifolds) especially the seam behind the manifolds right next to the heads. when you take out the old bolts and studs, then take the headers to a local hardware store (I find the ACE stores have much better nut and bolt sections than HD or Lowes), and find the grade 8 bolts that match those threads and are long enough to fit thru the header flange and tighten down to the heads.

As Far as torque specs go, good luck. I had maybe 2 bolts on the Gibby's I bought that I could actually get a torque wrench on. All the others could only be reached with an open end wrench and I just went as tight as I could get them.

After the install, take a 20 min drive and let the engine cool down. Then check the tightness of the bolts. Then check them at the end of the week, then end of the month, then maybe twice a year.

 

Oh and one last thing. After you've installed the headers, whatever you want to do to the engine, wait at least 10min after driving before diving in and WEAR GLOVES! The headers take up a deceptive amount of space in the engine bay and I burned myself 3 months ago on my headers changing spark plugs (one tiny spot on the top of a knuckle that still has the scar to show for it.)

 

i am getting the edelbrock ceramic shorties for sure. ceramic coated on the inside and out is what finally made my mind up.i actually donnt think they are the best for the performance gains,but will be a pretty easy install. and wiil be better than the stock manifolds.

stage 8 bolts were like 37$. i suppose if i cannt get them in around the primaries i will just use the ones that are supplied with the headers.that should be o.k. correct?

gotcha on hulk out on the wrench. i guess it was just hopeful thinking on getting them torqued right. i am just trying to get it done as right as i can so i donnt have issues with leaks.

thanx for the tips aims. if you think of something else let me know.

off subject but,when i did the rockers i was super happy........no plenum leak yet. wooohooo.

 

I gotta disagree with aim4 on that one. I used the bolts that came with my headers and they sucked. They kept coming loose and I even had some fall out. I got the stage 8 bolts torqued the ones I could threw the locks on and never checked them again. There was no leaks. The problem areas were the collector bolts. I need to come up with something better or try locktite when theuy go back in.

You will be very happy with the remflex gaskets. They are awesome and have great customer service.

Now not to scare you here BUT don't think it will be an easy install. I thought that and had bolts snap off in the old heads. They didn't line up at the collector to y pipe so I had to keep loosing them and wiggling to make it seat right. Not a flaw just the way all headers are gotta have it perfect before you tighten the bolts. Pcfixer thought it would be easy and that thought blew out the garage door real fast.

Oh and you shouldn't need them doughnuts

 

i guess i shouldnt have said easy. i should have worded it a different way.easier than the long tubes. i just donnt want to have to redo my whole exhaust .thats why i went with the shorties.

i might try to find some kind of locking nuts for the collector bolts or double nut them or something like that.could also drill a whole in the bolt and put a coter key through them so they donnt back out.

thanks for the tips.

 

bluebeast2.....which headers are you using?

 

my gibbys said to use a prybar on the y pipe to make them fit. They also suggested doing the driver's side first then pry on the passenger side where you have more room.

 

I got pacesetter shortys. I hope they don't rust away to nothing in the bed of my truck

 

just don't park it next to Zman's truck and the rust shouldn't be an issue.

 

thats what i was going to get. i think by all the research i did on headers, that the pacesetters would have a little better gains. but since they are only ceramic coated on the outside i am going with the edel's.