Question about front wheel bearing
#1
Question about front wheel bearing
Hi guys I have searched the site and the net looking for info on the front wheel bearings for my truck.
01 dodge 1500 4x4 with the 5.9 engine, It is rear wheel ABS so there is no ABS sensor in the front hub. Sorry I do not know what front axle it has on it but it is stock.
There are a lot of threads about them so I may have missed the one that covered this.
Thank you all that have posted about the front bearings.
My question the bearing is pressed into the hub right?? If yes, why can't I find any info on just the bearing? I.e. part number, brand
I plan on pulling the hub tomorrow and trying to press the bearing out there are lots of bearing shops around me I use from time to time but they all like to have the old part in their hand.
Hey I got over 200,000 mil in the stock bearings maybe there is something to say about factory parts lol.
Hope some one can help. I will post any info i find about the bearings
01 dodge 1500 4x4 with the 5.9 engine, It is rear wheel ABS so there is no ABS sensor in the front hub. Sorry I do not know what front axle it has on it but it is stock.
There are a lot of threads about them so I may have missed the one that covered this.
Thank you all that have posted about the front bearings.
My question the bearing is pressed into the hub right?? If yes, why can't I find any info on just the bearing? I.e. part number, brand
I plan on pulling the hub tomorrow and trying to press the bearing out there are lots of bearing shops around me I use from time to time but they all like to have the old part in their hand.
Hey I got over 200,000 mil in the stock bearings maybe there is something to say about factory parts lol.
Hope some one can help. I will post any info i find about the bearings
#3
#4
9.25 chrysler axle refers to a 9.25" ring gear. it was used for years and years and years.
i just replaced my front bearings about 2 or 3 weeks ago because one of them had gotten sloppy and was roaring. based on forums posts from the past, i was expecting the worst. i was actually not bad at all. i have the same truck as you, our front is a dana 44.
the unitized hubs include the bearing. they are not pressed in. they bolt into the steering knuckle from the back side. they are expensive. i paid $175 each at my local auto parts store for the timkin brand. you can get those from rockauto for $150 and i'd bet they are far better bearings than the ones from ebay. i also think you'd have more trouble than it would be worth to try and replace them under warranty. if you want the lifetime warranty you might be better to try a local place.
anyway, here's a great link for how to.
you'll need a 1-11/16 socket. i had to pay $25 for one.
you also need a 14mm 12 point socket (as opposed to a 6 point).
i used my air wrench on the big nut and a BIG breaker bar on all the others.
you'll need to remove the calipers, pads, and caliper mounting bars. that makes it a good time to put on new brakes if needed.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php
edit - when you remove the hub/bearing from the outer stub shaft, hold onto the long shaft and don't let it slide out of the diff. if that should happen, be very very gentle on sliding it back in, as the seal is at the inside end of the axle tube, at the diff. if you manhandle the axle past the seal, you'll tear it, and then you've got a bigger job.
edit again. here's the timkins. they've gone up. $166 at rockauto.
http://info.rockauto.com/Timken/Deta...HA599863-S.jpg
i just replaced my front bearings about 2 or 3 weeks ago because one of them had gotten sloppy and was roaring. based on forums posts from the past, i was expecting the worst. i was actually not bad at all. i have the same truck as you, our front is a dana 44.
the unitized hubs include the bearing. they are not pressed in. they bolt into the steering knuckle from the back side. they are expensive. i paid $175 each at my local auto parts store for the timkin brand. you can get those from rockauto for $150 and i'd bet they are far better bearings than the ones from ebay. i also think you'd have more trouble than it would be worth to try and replace them under warranty. if you want the lifetime warranty you might be better to try a local place.
anyway, here's a great link for how to.
you'll need a 1-11/16 socket. i had to pay $25 for one.
you also need a 14mm 12 point socket (as opposed to a 6 point).
i used my air wrench on the big nut and a BIG breaker bar on all the others.
you'll need to remove the calipers, pads, and caliper mounting bars. that makes it a good time to put on new brakes if needed.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php
edit - when you remove the hub/bearing from the outer stub shaft, hold onto the long shaft and don't let it slide out of the diff. if that should happen, be very very gentle on sliding it back in, as the seal is at the inside end of the axle tube, at the diff. if you manhandle the axle past the seal, you'll tear it, and then you've got a bigger job.
edit again. here's the timkins. they've gone up. $166 at rockauto.
http://info.rockauto.com/Timken/Deta...HA599863-S.jpg
Last edited by dhvaughan; 01-22-2009 at 09:12 PM.
#5
P.S AutoZone does not have the right P/N for wheel bearings for out truck. If you get them @ AutoZone, you are getting the wrong part.
#6
Not exactly true.
All newer 2nd gen dodges have rear wheel ABS. But, you could also have it in the front too. Some do, some don't. When I ordered my truck I had them leave the front ABS out (it was an option).
So, make sure you have it or not, because if you do then it will be a different wheel bearing than one without ABS (it will have a wire coming out of it).
#7
Ok so it is the ring gear size thanks. I have done the u-joints. It so the hub seems vary easy after removing the caliper and rotor it is only the 3 bolts in the back and the big nut on the shaft.
I was just hoping there was a way of kind of rebuilding the old one. That would be to easy I guess.
It's funny there is no slop in the bearing just the annoying roaring. Tried replacing the u-joint thinking it was the problem. NO
Thanks for the thought of rockauto for the bearing you know if they tack pay pal?
my truck is only rear wheel ABS so no little wire to deal with both bearing are relatively the same the ABS one has the sensor plat and the sensor.
The eBay item was only for the one hub 119.00 just found another one for 80 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
I was just hoping there was a way of kind of rebuilding the old one. That would be to easy I guess.
It's funny there is no slop in the bearing just the annoying roaring. Tried replacing the u-joint thinking it was the problem. NO
Thanks for the thought of rockauto for the bearing you know if they tack pay pal?
my truck is only rear wheel ABS so no little wire to deal with both bearing are relatively the same the ABS one has the sensor plat and the sensor.
The eBay item was only for the one hub 119.00 just found another one for 80 including shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
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