here ya go......
http://www.rm-indy.com/wavefiles/2001ramsrvcmanual.zip

 

A manual will do wonders.

 

I have a Hayne's manual, just have to find it. That thing isn't the most user friendly book to begin with though.

 

Im not attacking, Im just giving ya the brass tacks

Remove the top hose, point it at the ground. Remove the rad cap stick a hose in. Turn on the hose turn on the truck. When **** stops flowing out of the hose...you win. Button it up, fill it up, be on your way.

 

Neon, if you promise me that you will do the work, I'll tell you how I would do the job on my own truck. I'm not ragging on you or anything like that so don't take this personally, but I and others on this board would like to see you put out some effort to learn how to DIY on your own truck. I've noticed that a lot of young people today want to be hand-held and spoon-fed through everything they do because they think it's the quick-out, but they never learn to do anything on their own.

If you want step-by-step instructions, go download the manual. You have a complete 2001 Factory Service Manual at your disposal any time you need it. I go to the FSM and Haynes when I have questions all of the time and there is no shame in it, lol. We are here to help you when you run into difficulty or have questions, but a lot of us are getting tired of giving out good advice only to have it be ignored. Please don't feel like the Lone Ranger because you are not the only one. Most of us on this board want to help you DIY, but we would like to see some more effort on your part that you at least tried to start the job on your own first.

 

They sell flush kits at walmart. Not sure how well they work but my bro in law used to use them. I always thought it was shady to cut your lines. Its a way to do it though

 

Sounds good. I will report back when I begin the operation within the near future.

Thanks all.

 

Most reputable shops will even cut the heater supply line to install a "T" to backflush the heater core. There's not really any other way to do it other than pull the whole dang heater supply line. I think the FSM even uses this method. I always insist on using a metal coupler afterward to "patch" the line back together. I don't leave a plastic coupler or the flushing "T" in there. I just don't trust them around the heat of the exhaust manifolds.

The Walmart prestone superflush kit works well. Just make sure you get all of it out, it's strong stuff.

I'm not a fan of tap water. It costs me a little more, but I do a final flush with distilled. I don't want the deposits from our super hard water down here. After I get the all the antifreeze and coolant flush out from the bottom hose with the tap water, I reconnect the bottom hose and disconnect the top one and run 7 gallons of distilled thru the engine. Then a dump the rad and refill with anitfreeze and it's just about the right mix. After I burp out all the air and top off with antifreeze it's usually right at or above the 50/50 mix.

It doesn't get all the tap out, but the majority of it is gone.

 

my truck has a metal coupler already in the heater hose.... i thought it was stock?

 

It might very well be stock.