Hi, i have a 1998 ram 1500 4x4. Im currently working on the front end. I noticed that the drivers side UV Joint seems to struggle to turn when the wheel is cranked way over to the left. The passenger side seems fine. Can anyone tell me why the joint is ''stiff''?
Thanks

 

its old and there isnt any grease in it.... replace it, or grease it if you can

 

+1 on the grease thing. If it is greasable then you might be able to get away with just greasing it. If not, then the needle bearings are probably shot or on their way out!

 

thanks guys, i kinda figured it might be that. There is no grease nipple there so i just geased up the bushing things. I noticed that the drivers front wheel is also kinda angles outwards slightly...would this have anything to do with the UV. Or is that the tracking that needs adjusting?

Also on another point, i seem to be leaking fluid from where the rear axel meets the rear drum brake, could that be diff fluid or brake fluid? Any ideas what could be causing it?

Cheers

 

The wheel sticking out is probably a toe-in alignment issue.

Just greasing the bushings does nothing for your u-joint, the needle bearings on the inside of that cap are what needs grease. Since there is no fitting (the factory joints were sealed units without a grease fitting), its probably time to replace that joint if its dragging at all like you described. If you let it go and it deteriorates to the point of failure, its going to take out your axle shaft when it goes.

Is the fluid thats leaking on the axle smell like gear oil or brake fluid? I'd say its probably the latter, but wouldnt rule out an axle seal leaking either.

 

see u-joint info here. lots of good diy at pavement, also here at df.
if you do replace the front axle u-joints, or have it done, be very very gentle with the front axle seals which are at the pumpkin, and easily damaged be sliding the axle shaft in without lifting them.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php

+1 smell the rear leak. if it smells like dog $hit, its gear oil. download the 01 service manual here.
http://www.rm-indy.com/wavefiles/2001ramsrvcmanual.zip

 

Also check your wheel bearing because that would account for your wheel leaning out and the wheel not spinning easily they always go bad on our trucks.

 

Thanks very much guys! So if i remove the needle pins on the UV joint can i grease them up, or is it a sealed unit that i HAVE to replace??

As far as the rear leak is concerned, it turned out to be diff oil leaking through the axel seal....which i am currently replacing.

Also how do i get to the bearings on the front axel? Same way as rear? Go in the diff case and split the shaft?

Does the toe-in thing mean a wheel alignment? If i adjust my tie end rods in or out of the trac bar would that be the same thing?

Thanks for all the help

 

To get to the needle bearings in the u-joint you would have to pop the cups out. At that point, I think you might as well replace them at like $15 a piece.

To get to the front wheel bearing you need to knock the hub out of the frame. I'm sure there is a DIY around here that explains in detail but you do not need to go into the diff. case to split the shaft, it will just slide right out for ya.

The toe-in is an alignment issue. Unless you have done it before I would suggest taking it to the pros so you are not replacing a front tire or two this summer.

 

if u-joiint has a grease fitting, you can regrease it. if no grease fitting, then its a sealed unit and once dry=bad, it can only be replaced.

test front axle bearings by grabbing the top of the tire and pulling/pushing/rocking towards you as hard as you can. there should be no movement. if there is, it'll need replacing, as they are also sealed units (thanks dodge). they are also damn expensive at about $175 each. completely different from rear brg. see pavement for how to. remove wheels, brakes, big nut, 3 bolts on back side. note the axle bearings and axle u-joints are side by side, and require the removal of all the same stuff. so if you replace one, take a very good look at the other.

yes toe in = wheel alignment. cost you about $60-70.

welcome to df. go to user control panel and fill out your signature with your truck model/features.

edit - dbl beat me to it