Got the EQ 2.02 heads yesterday. I have 2 long days back to back so I won't even get to do a thorough inspection until Wednesday.

So any tips I should know for a head swap?

I keep a large cardboard box cut open that a label with Cylinder numbers 1-8 so the rockers and pushrods will go back exactly, but it's basically pull the engine down the the heads, remove, replace gaskets and bolt back down, right? anything I should be mindful of?

 

I want to see pics of these heads.

Before you start, use compressed air and blow the top of the engine clean. When tearing the top end down, I'd use a shop vac to clean any remaining stray bits of dirt and sand.

Also, you should be replacing the head bolts since they stretch over time after initial installation and torquing.

 

Are you pulling the engine, or doing all inside work?

 

Congratulations! When you get a chance, post a pic of your 2.02 combustion chamber.

Cleanliness is the name of the game. Before you put the new heads on, make sure the block surface is as clean and dry as you can get it. For the block surface, I used a fine wire brush on a pneumatic die grinder to get most of the old gasket/crud off and then followed that up with a Norton bear pad (like Scotchbrite) and WD40. Keep the valley covered while you do this and use a shop vac to get any FOD out of the cylinders, etc. Always keep the engine covered when you're not working on it. Also make sure there is no FOD inside the new heads. I blew mine out with some compressed air before putting them on. Since you're not doing the cam, you don't need to mark anything. Did I forget anything?

 

Could use oil or lacker thinner with a rag to get the crud off the block.

 

I also forgot that you should remove the injectors from the fuel rail and inspect the innards of the fuel rail for debris. Replace the upper/lower injector O-Rings and be certain to use some oil to lube them when re-installing to prevent tearing. Now would also be a great time to port out the injector bores of your intake as well as cutting down the intake runners and even knocking out the middle plate.

 

Good idea to check the fuel rails but the rest kind of useless for him. He has an airgap intake

Seeing everything else is covered, just be sure to get ARP headbolts and use good headgaskets. Non boosted Felpro 1008 be a good choice.
May want to think about gasket matching before assembling.

 

Fuel rail was cleaned about a month ago when the tech couldn't find the cause of the ping. Injectors got a sonic bath too.

Pics of the heads will be coming Wednesday when I get a minute. I was skeptical that I got the right heads and that Clearwater was going to send me the 1.92" heads as the price was just too good and I figured the listed price was an oops on their part. What I think happened is they messed up the description of their heads and put the 2.02" intake valves on Ebay for the price of the 1.92 heads, as just after I called and placed the order they pulled the listing even though they said they had over 10 in stock. I haven't found a similar listing yet.

I'll say this though, I called to confirm they would be the 2.02's and Bob stuck to his word over the phone and shipped them for the $350 a head price so I'll give him a shout out for that. He also took about a 5 minute whipping from me with every question I could think of and answered them all politely and honestly.

I do have to return my cores with all the bits and pieces, but the postage with UPS is prepaid. I'll know more about and have pics on Wednesday. Very pleased with the customer service so far.

Last night I held a ruler up the valve last night as I had to know if I got the right heads and it looked clearly just over the 2" mark, so I highly doubt it's the 1.92's or it'd be slightly under. Wish I had a precision caliper to measure more accurately but those are expensive and that's the best I could do in a pinch.

RM, by gasket matching are you saying port the intake runners in the heads to match the gaskets or cut the gaskets to match the intake runners?

I'm hesitant to port the heads while I still have a warranty on them as this is not a strip truck but a built up DD. In 3 years I could pull and port If I want to go full strip truck, but the heads should flow plenty for an N/A 318 as is I would think. I'm actually worried about a little bottom end loss, but Bob didn't seem to think it would be noticeable if there was any. I hope he's right as I can't undo this one.

 

You don't have a Harbor Freight close by? I got one, like, a mile from my house. A 6" digital caliper is about $17 ... I've got a 4", 6" and 8" ... waiting on the 12" to go on sale. Sweet deals.

I still have connections to the calibration lab that I worked in ... yes ... they're accurate.

 

Congrats, sounds like you got a good deal on them!
Yes I was refering to opening the heads on the intake side to match gasket dimensions and remove any step going into the heads. Having a step going into the head can reduce velocity and cause low rpm torque loss. Seeing you still have the stock cam in it (unless I missed it) probably better if you dont port the heads. They will flow well as is. Adding a reasonable cam in a couple years you may want to at that point.
If you do see any torque loss from these new upgrades, 2500stall tc would help.

Funny about the digital caliper, had to change the battery in mine 1/2hr ago to respond to another post on another site. Handy thing to have & are pretty cheap as mentioned above

Edit
May want to gasket match the airgap as well