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Timing chain cover coolant leak

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  #11  
Old 03-19-2009, 02:17 AM
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Ok, I got the crankshaft bolt off. That thing was really on there. I had to stand on a 2.5' extension on a rachet handle and bounce on it for about 30sec before it started to budge.
Anyway... I got the cover off, and before I start replacing the chain/sprockets, what exactly is the best process to make sure I don't screw up the timing? I'm not sure that I fully understand the processes outlined in the writeup that TMS posted earlier.
Thanks for the help...
 
  #12  
Old 03-19-2009, 07:35 AM
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best practice - wipe all the oil off the face of the timing sprockets and locate the timing "dots". mark them with something. i like orange rtv. rotate the engine until the dots line up like in the picture below. you probably want to remove plugs so engine rotates easily. note that each sprocket has a keyway, so there are only 2 ways that it can go - correct, and wrong (180* out). unbolt and remove sprockets with engine in this position. don't turn the engine. don't remove the distributor. put the new sprockets in the chain, and slide the whole assy onto the crank and cam. then bolt them back on.
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here's the old one. all worn out.
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Last edited by dhvaughan; 03-19-2009 at 07:37 AM.
  #13  
Old 03-19-2009, 10:19 AM
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Thanks, that seems pretty straightforward. I'll give it a shot when I get off work tonight.
 
  #14  
Old 03-21-2009, 08:10 PM
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Am installing the new chain and sprockets. I know the crankshaft gets torqued to 135 ftlbs. What is the torque for the camshaft sprocket bolt?

Edit: Nevermind, I found it. It's 50 ft. lbs for the camshaft sprocket bolt.
 

Last edited by Dodge33; 03-21-2009 at 09:49 PM.
  #15  
Old 03-22-2009, 04:18 PM
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I used Permatex Ultra Black on the timing chain cover gasket and the water pump gasket.
The instructions on the silicone say it cures in 24 hours. How long do I have to wait before I can start the engine? I'd like to be able to run it tonight to check for leaks and make sure everythings good. I just don't want to discover a major problem on my way to work tomorrow morning.

So is it ok to start it up in a couple hours, or do I need to wait a full 24 hrs?

Thanks...
 
  #16  
Old 03-22-2009, 05:46 PM
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As long as you thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces and evenly tightened everything you should be OK IMO.
 
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex-TheDOGG
As long as you thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces and evenly tightened everything you should be OK IMO.
Yeah, I spent about an hour and a half making sure that all the mating surfaces were clean and free of any old gasket material, so hopefully I should be fine there.

Ok, going to the store to get more coolent and oil. Then the scary part, starting it up. Hope I put it all back together ok. No extra parts, so I think I should be good.
 

Last edited by Dodge33; 03-22-2009 at 06:38 PM.
  #18  
Old 03-22-2009, 06:45 PM
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yeah. a couple of hours is fine. fingers crossed.
 
  #19  
Old 03-22-2009, 08:36 PM
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Filled with coolent and started it up. No funny noises or viberation, seems to run good with no leaks.
Only thing is, the top radiator hose got warm, however the bottom hose does not get warm, even though I let it idle at temp for about 10min. Is this normal? It doesn't overheat, so I guess it's ok?
 

Last edited by Dodge33; 03-22-2009 at 08:42 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-22-2009, 08:46 PM
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normal. we actually have very good radiators (when they don't break).
take it for a spin, see how it runs.
 


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