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Timing chain cover coolant leak

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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 07:12 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by RTEddie
Other than the pump, gasket, timing cover gasket, timing chain, radiator hoses, pump to engine hose, o-ring and maybe an oil pan gasket, anything else I need to change out?
while the intake is off is a very good time to change the dist cap, rotor, and wires; t-stat; short hose for water pump bypass;
 
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #42  
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Default Timing Chain and Sprockets

See what happens when it starts out as a water pump problem?? lol Anyways, I was thinking of replacing the timing chain and sprockets since I'd be in that area. I've been reading very complicated procedures about locating Top Dead Center on the piston stroke to make sure it's done properly. On the other hand, I see that the two shafts are keyed (single key) with markings for 6 oclock and 12 oclock for cam and crank sprockets. Is it really that easy? Is it really only a matter of lining up these two markings correctly? Or do I need to go through the whole process of verifying crank and distributor rotor position?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 07:28 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RTEddie
On the other hand, I see that the two shafts are keyed (single key) with markings for 6 oclock and 12 oclock for cam and crank sprockets. Is it really that easy? Is it really only a matter of lining up these two markings correctly? Or do I need to go through the whole process of verifying crank and distributor rotor position?
its very simple. before removal, locate the timing marks on the old sprockets. rotate engine so they line up (crank dot at top, cam dot at bottom). remove sprockets. don't turn the engine. put on new sprockets. they are both key'ed and they can only go 1 way.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 07:54 AM
  #44  
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+1 To what vaughan posted.

As an added note that 12 o'clock crank/6 o'clock cam is the #6 cylinder Top Dead Center, just in case anything moves. And make doubly sure you aren't off by even a tooth.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
hey vaughan, what are you doing with finger nail polish?


Wait, on second thought, I don't want to know.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #46  
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Default Thanks Vaughn

Thanks for being patient with all my questions. I'll be extra careful reinstalling the sprockets and chain. I suppose there are a number of reference marks I can use to guide me: the ones on the sprockets, taking a measurement from key to key on the shafts, etc. Just for my knowledge, when someone describes changing their timing by 4 degrees in either direction, what exactly does that mean? Are you turning the cam sprocket a certain distance from TDC? I don't think I'm going to do this personally, but I'd like to know what physically has to happen to the sprockets and chain to accomplish this.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #47  
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If you plan on doing work like this you should really invest in a factory service manual. The Chilton/Haynes manuals are sorely lacking in scope and detail. As for timing, there are a number of different timings on an engine, some can be adjusted, others not. There is ignition timing, injector timing, camshaft timing, etc. Camshaft timing should be left stock. Changing it is in the realm of high-performance engine building/tuning and not something the average owner needs to worry about. Done wrong, serious engine damage can result.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Miami_Son
If you plan on doing work like this you should really invest in a factory service manual. The Chilton/Haynes manuals are sorely lacking in scope and detail. As for timing, there are a number of different timings on an engine, some can be adjusted, others not. There is ignition timing, injector timing, camshaft timing, etc. Camshaft timing should be left stock. Changing it is in the realm of high-performance engine building/tuning and not something the average owner needs to worry about. Done wrong, serious engine damage can result.

I have the Chrysler/Dodge Manual for my vehicle. I have to admit that even it kinda sux in places. Sometimes explanations of things aren't as clear as they could be.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #49  
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No argument there, but at least it is more focused. My Chilton manual covers not only RAM trucks, but some RAM vans, Durangos and Dakotas. It jumps around so much that it is easy to be reading stuff about the wrong truck. And there are some sections that have nearly nothing about the trucks in them.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #50  
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+1 on the manual. It will tell you things (even minor stuff) that may be missed here.
 
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