The master cylinder pushes the wheel cylinders just fine.

 

So it STILL does that "pulsing pedal" every once-in-a-while, but nothing I can set my clock to. I check my drums to see if maybe the cylinders were leaking, but no luck. Dry as a bone. Everything looks good. The pads still have a lot of meat left on them. I adjusted the rear brakes manually, and still the pulsing/chirp continues. The Haynes Manuel says, to check if your combination valve is working properly, have someone press the brakes and see if the valve stem (the small black button on the front of the combination valve) pops out. Well, the combo valve works fine, but I noticed that the RWAL valve has a valve stem as well and it didn't move in or out. The manuel didn't talk about that, is that normal? How do you know if it's on it's way out? Beside getting into a crash because it didn't work. I bled the brake about a year ago and switched to DOT 4 synthetic, could this be the problem? I also have the 1 ton dually wheel cylinders ready to be installed but I want to settle this problem before I do so.

 

J415, sounds like we are in this together man.

I have a 2000 half ton, with no ABS (just RWAL), and the brake light and ABS light have just started to shine once in a while lately. I also have experienced the 3 little jerks from the brake pedal (farting if you will) a few times, but definitely not a regular occurrence. Heck, the lights actually aren't even a regular occurrence, just once in a while. WTF My speedo works good so I am assuming the VSS is OK. And of course, there are no codes to check because the check engine light isn't on. Hmmm...

Good luck with the troubleshooting. I will post up anything I might find as well.

 

Try cleaning the connection to the sensor. Both sides, the sensor and the plug. Since even your sig pic shows you like wheelin' , it gets corroded from that(water,mud,etc..) and the salt on the roads depending on where you live. I always suggest cleaning it first because I had the same issue last year. I didn't even clean it, I just unplugged it and plugged it back in like 5 times and the prob went away.

One other thing, what ever you do don't pull on the wire itself to remove it, only pull the plastic housing.

 

Sorry to hear that. As soon as the lights went on I changed the ABS speed sensor (the one on top of the rear diff) and drove it home (100 mile drive) with both light on all the way home. Then as soon as I got home I rest the PCM AGAIN and reconnected the brake light switch and the light hasn't came on since. I still, however, get those light "step down" type of feeling every now and then. The one's that feel like farts. Out of curiosity I checked out the Reservoir and the grommets in between the Master Cylinder and the Reservoir were damp. So I took a small inspection mirror and I saw a leak that was developing. It was like a tear drop that was about to form, but it wasn't big enough to trickle down. I'll be changing the MC pretty soon. The farting, I think, is "blow by" at the Master Cylinder, hence, the farting of the break pedal and the leak. I hope you have the same problem as mine so that this will work for you. I'll keep you posted.

 

Zman, thanks for the tip... I will give that a shot later on and see. That would be a simple fix, and I like a simple fix .


J415, I will have to check on that as well. I have not seen a leak from there, but I have not looked as closey as you have done though. That does sound like a problem that could very well be contributing to the spongy feal now and again. Keep us all posted, thanks.


And one question, did your "check engine" light ever come on? Mine never did until today, but I am not sure if it is even related to my current ABS/Break light problem or not. I turned the key back and forth 3 times and got a code of P1763, but that code is not even in my Chilton's book. Anybody know what it is, or where I can look them up on the internet (I am going to take a minute here and google it)? Thanks fellas.

 

theres a sensor on the tranny that can cause irratic shift problems and also cause the abs n brake light to come on.. sorry if this was said i didnt feel like reading all posts. i know also if u disconnect the neg terminal on the battery and turn the key to run and hold for 30 seconds then reconnect it should reset all codes previously thrown.

 

+1 P1763 is GOV pressure sensor voltage to high. Just thought I'd put my 2 cents in. Don't know if it's related to ABS. I never triggered my check engine light when I had that problem.

 

Well ****, that is a tranny code, isnt it? Thats not what I wanted to hear! Where did you get the info on that code?

 

Yup, sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I got the code from a book that I have. I have a code reader that came with a book for it so you can reference it. But it's definitely a tranny code. Don't know if it's the same thing but my tranny guy replaced my governor solenoid about 2 years ago 'cause it was on it's way out for 80 bucks. so that was a relatively cheap fix.