alright, i got the stuff to do this tomorrow(today )......haynes manual really sucks, do i have to torque the outer bolt to a certain spec?

 

HUB / BEARING

REMOVAL

(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper adapter bolts from the
steering knuckle and remove caliper adapter assembly
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).

NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
adapter assembly.

(4) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
(5) Remove the hub/bearing nut (Fig. 3) and slide
the hub/bearing off the spindle.

CAUTION: The hub/bearing nut can not be re-used.

INSTALLATION

(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Slide the hub/bearing onto the spindle.
(3) Install the

²

²

²

²

Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving vehicle.

 

thanks

 

well. that was fun....i got the drivers side done, couldnt get to the outer race, so i just left it in there, the inner was pretty bad lookin, while putting the new on in, i was using the old to help knock it in and it got stuck so i got some vise grips and was trying to pry it out and SMACK!!! it let loose and the back of the pliers busted my lip open pretty bad, i ended passing out once i got inside and went to the hospital....very lovely

 

why do i need a new nut? i reused my old one then an impact.....

 

are you serious ?

on the nut, hang on. if you've got the unitized bearing that's around $180 each and bolts into the back of the knuckle, then the outer nut torques at 185 pounds, and you're supposed to use a new nut, (i didn't).

if you've got simple, conventional, inner and outer tapered bearings that cost about $10 each, then the nut is only finger tight, and you can reuse it, and you don't use an impact wrench.

 

yep, dead serious.....it split my lip open inside and out and my gum and chipped my tooth.....there's blood all over the driveway......


yeah, ive got the simple bearings......so i shouldnt have torqued them?....should i back that nut back off? ive already drove bout 50 miles on it

 

don't ya just hate that feeling when you get hurt and realize that its really bad and get the cold sweats and feel like you're gonna pass out? a friend of mine almost broke my finger a couple weeks ago and i got it then so i feel for ya.
my last post is out of the 2001 ram service manual, but it does seem a little off to me. when i did my camaro bearings (tapered) i had to use a new seal but not a new king nut. and i tightened them down to something like 75ft lbs, spun the rotor to seat the bearings, tightened them again then backed it off 1/4 turn and put the cotter pin in and was done.

 

i dont know why i passed out......i was fine, came in and me and my g/f were lookin at it in the mirror, no biggie, then walk into the living room and bam....got to feelin terrible so i sat down and she said i passed out and was shakin...no joke about the blood, as soon as i did it i could just feel it start gushing and drippin everywhere.......do yall think i should back the nut off? while jacked up, it has some resistance...... dont know about now after driving it tho

 

the haynes manual says tighten to 12 ft lbs, spin the rotor to seat the bearings, back off 1/4 turn, then tighten hand tight and put the cotter pin in and you're done. now that i read that i remember on my camaro it was no more than 12 ft lbs not 75. so yeah, back it off and don't drive it till you do. hopefully the newly packed bearings didn't get messed up in that 50 miles.
thats the second time i've seen conflicting info in that service manual. i think on my post from it that it was supposed to say inch pounds and not foot pounds.