didnt read all of the posts but did your re-toruqe the bolts? I found when I did my header install the bolts would loosen as it heat cycled.

 

here's a post from another member on reading the outputs of the sensors attached to the T.B. :

Here the scoop on testing the sensors a lot less expensive than replacing with new component. For further info go to utube and search "IAC valve test"

Component:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Remove engine harness plug from sensor, Put digital multimeter to the 20K ohm scale, connect one lead of the meter to the center prong of the TPS and the other to outside prong of sensor (the sensor has three prongs doesnt seem to matter which outside one is used). Now open and close the throttle while watching the the meter u should see a smooth run up and down in resistance, there can be no gaps or breaks where u lose the reading. If the resistance is constant your good dont buy a new TPS. I also taped the sensor with a screw driver while holding the throttle open to make sure the resistance didn't jump around.

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: The sensor has three prongs: 5vdc, output to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and ground. remove sensor from Throttle Body (TB), connect the sensor to the engine wiring harness plug, and attach a digital volt meter (~20vdc scale) to the middle green wire of the MAP sensor engine wiring harness (I used an alligator clip to pierce the insulation about 2" back from the plug so I could tape it later) . then connect a hand operated vacuum pump ($20 harbor freight) to the MAP vacuum port. Turn key to the on position dont start the engine, observe the volt meter readings as u apply vacuum to the MAP. My readings: 0 inHg = 4.73vdc, 5 inHg = 3.83 vdc, 10 inHg = 3.07, 15inHg = 2.13 vdc & 20 inHg = 1..23 vdc. Let it sit at 20 for a while (30 seconds) to make sure it holds, also tap to make sure the reading remains stable. Sensor should show ~ a 1 volt difference per 5 inHg of vacuum. I declared mine good based upon the above results.

Idle Air Control (IAC)" The IAC is a small motor that operates a plunger in the TB to control engine idle air flow. The IAC has four prongs (connection points) two are 12 vdc for the motor and two are a set of contacts (I think as I could not get mine to run and operate the contacts) anyway the test is to apply 9 vdc using a small 9 volt battery to the motor and observe plunger operation, reverse the polarity and the motor will run in the opposite direction (Plunger in - Plunger out) . If motor runs and contacts open and close ur good.
there are a few on truck test like putting on max ac while at idle, the idle speed should increase if IAC is working right. My test was not good so I might spring for an IAC after I get back on the road.

 

No I haven't I know that one from each side has already fallen off. I'm going to retighten them tomarrow. I've ordered a map sensor just in case. I figure it that dosen't fix it then I can take it back.

 

you should've known that you need to do a heat cycle torque on your header bolts....that was a big mistake. but hey, we all make them lol. learning experience is the way i see it. lol

 

little bit of Harsh words here... imagine when you were 17~18 (dont know the OP's age) and you wanted to do this & that to your car but have no guidance. mistakes will be made and a learning process will begin. One of the benefits of a forum like this one is the knowledge that is passed around from one poster to the next. have a problem, ask a question, learn from it, pass it on to the next guy when the time is right.

to the OP, you will have to retorque the bolts 3 or more times before they are heat cycled enough to stay tight. do not use loctite, use a wrench. once they are heat cycled, they will stay torqued.

 

It has been said that you lose low end with the longtubes so this may be part of the issue coupled with your previous slight bog making it waht it is now. fwiw, I would have suggested to get an o2 extender (look up casper electronics) to get around using one of the universal ones. Go ahead and give the MAP a shot, but I highly doubt that is your issue. Also you might try talking to people who have the longtubes. Motorbrreath had LT's, Neon aka 01dodgeram360 had LT's before he sold his truck... there are just two off the top of my head. I would talk to multiple others and see what you come up with since they don't seem to want to come to you.

 

I'm assuming you're talking about the LT's in your sig. If so, I hope you didn't use the chknsht gaskets that came with them. You can retourque the headers all you want, but those paper gaskets will blow in no time. The longer you wait the harder they are to scrape off, so it may be wise to pull them now and replace them with some remflex or, at the very least, some Felpro matallics. I ran the Felpro's for 30k mi. without issue after the paper gaskets blew (less than 2k). Also, those lt's are going to lean you out a fair bit at wot. You may want to look at a SCT tuner.

Lt's actually help bottom end if you get your a/f ratio right.

 

the LT's are supposed to help low end, the shorties loose low end. I also agree on the paper gaskets, they suck. go to napa and get some good metal ones (where I got mine).

 

Sure the LT's may help if they have the engine mods to warrent them, but most of the guys on here run them on stock engines which probably isn't helping them. Im not talking adding roller rockers to make it mod'd, I mean some new heads etc. Get the air flowing to fill those dual 3" collectors. Infact it was the guys on here having so many problems with their longtubes and first hand review of them that turned me away from them when I was looking into headers. It may be true that shorty headers are more of a compromise, but I will tell you that I definately have not lost low end but rather gained because it does make a noticable difference on hills that I can vouch for. Couple it with the superchips flashpaq tune and im good to go imho. I know lastrights runs that combination as well and is happy. Not trying to stir the pot here steve, but all I was trying to say was that longtubes may have there on paper advantages, but do you see those increases with a stock engine magnum engine vs. a decently modified engine or 408 that they were probably designed for?

 

what about the gaskets that come with the Pace Setter shorty headers I bought from Jegs.....are they crappy or are they OK? They were pretty thick.