If there is only 2 o2 sensors, I don't think you have a cali truck which is probably part of your problem right there. You don't need 2002 sensors like you had gotten either. I have a 2001 non cali truck. and replaced both of mine 6 months ago for $100 from summit. NTK sensors are the ones you want. Use the manufacturer website to look up your numbers. Plug the numbers into summit. That is of couse if you want to buy the right sensors.

 

You misunderstand me. There are two upstream O2 sensors. These are the ones that decide the fuel mixture. That's why I only refered to there as being two. There is actually four. The two downstreams wich don't have any effect on the way the vehicle runs. In fact as of righ now I don't have them connected. As far as the 2002 sensors its weird and stupid but, I'm telling you the truth. I bought 2001 O2 sensors and they have round connectors and my truck as square connectors wich you don't see until 2002. I'll check into the NGK sensors I've heard alot of good things about them. Honestly I would prefer to have non-universal O2 sensors.

I'm starting to wonder about the tps. Before it was running at 22% idle and 78% WOT. I took it off disconnected it started the truck then shut off the reconnected it and started it up again. It's now running 12.5% idle and 79% WOT. I did something similar when I first installed. Anyways I don't know if it was the problem or not. It fits but, it wouldn't seem like enough to cause the problem.

A side note. I found a vaccum line back behind the distributor. It's green and I think it's the one that feeds the 4x4 actuator but, I can't figure out what it is supposed to connect to uptop. I've dug around everywhere in there. Can somone look and see where it is supposed to go. I doubt that it's enough off leak to cause my problem though but, you never know.

Thanks for everyones help.

 

Gotcha. Yeah you probably bought the bosch o2 sensors (I made that mistake too first) But the ngk sensors come with the square connector. I dont doubt you bought the 2002 o2 sensors because those bosch ones have the square connector. (also looked that up when I was replacing mine) Check out some NGK / NTK o2 sensors and go from there would be my best guess. I've never had any luck with the universals, which is why I also suggested the extender(s).

Check your tps (there is a write up around here somewhere) I just posted in jasonw's superchips thread on how to do it as I recall from memory, but I would find the writeup.

As far as the leak, can't help you since im 150 miles away from my truck at the moment.

 

Bump

Looking for anyone who might know where the hose plugs in at.

 

Well the crank checks out. The new symptom is that if the truck starts running badly I can turn it off and then back on and it instantly runs correctly. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Bumpity bump bump do the bump

 

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail when this is happening?
Also you might want to put a stethascope on each of the injectors. You said you have a scanner- What are your stft and ltft readings when this happens?
With cali emissions you should have bank1 and bank2 trims.

 

Yes there is a bank 1 and 2. I will look at them next time. I didn't know how to read them so I ignored them. If I recall corectly the stft would read -1 or something similar and lft would read 0. What do they stand for and what am I looking for? I havn't checked the fuel pressure yet but, I will. How hard is the pressure regulator to change? I know it sits on top of the fuel tank and has the filter built into it but, I have no idea how to change it out.

 

They are your short term and long term fuel trims, and 0 and -1 are good #'s. Stock, anywhere from +5 to -5 is ideal. You have to read them after the truck warms up-when the scanner tells you the pcm is in closed loop. You would have to drop the fuel tank to change out the pump/regulator unit. It's not hard as long as it is empty. If your scanner has freeze frame capability, capture all the info the next time your problem occurs and post them up.

 

I'll get the freeze frame data next time but here is what I saw. When the problem happens everything goes extremly negative. Lt - like -15 on both sides and st is like -32 both sides. I assume that this means it's trying to stop all gas from getting in there. If I turn the truck off and back on it goes back to normal. -1 to maybe -8 and 1 to 8 positive. The computer is in closed mode when this happens. The other thing is at WOT the computer goes into open loop wich I know is normal but, if I push 3/4 and then let off on it's way back down to idle it goes into open and then back to closed. This might be normal but, I'm not sure.