K thanks for that link. I am gonna siphon some gas outa the tank and see what it looks like I poured some super in and a thing of dry gas hopefully that will help, but I will see how it goes tomorrow I gotta go to work now.

 

Alright gas was good, my timing was off. However the previous leak at the back of the motor has increased, but it did turn on twice for about 4-5 seconds before cutting out. I ma pull the the tc plate and see if I can tell where the oil is coming from. BUT IT SOUNDED AWESOME!

Also the machine shop guy seems adamant that its not the main seal he put in b/c he says it shouldn't leak bad b/c it doesn't hold much pressure, any ideas then? Or is he just trying to cover a bad job done?

and here are some pics.

 

He said it shouldn't leak bad? It shouldn't leak at all after a rebuild. You better check it. And also check the oil pan ,the valve covers and the back of the intake.

 

I mean I dunno for sure that its the rear seal, but the oil is seems to be coming from the inside the bell housing at the back of the motor it is def not anything at the top of the motor aka valve covers intake manifold.

It sucks though that I am so close to finally having a running truck again after almost a year of downtime and I have to deal with a retarded leak.

All I can think of back there is the main seal and freeze plugs....maybe the pan but there really isn't any pressure at the back of the pan is there? especially enough to push oil out of it?

 

the only oil leak inside the bell housing is either transmission fluid or rear main in the engine. freeze plugs hold in coolant, not oil.

the good news is that you can replace the rear main w/o pulling the motor. remove starter, braces, oil pan, oil pump, remove rear main, loosen other mains a little. damn, i guess that is a lot of work...

there's no oil pressure pushing against the oil pan nor rear main. if it leaks, its just not sealed...

 

Hmmm I bet its that damn seal, good call on the plugs I didn't even think about how they hold in coolant not oil. But the problem is the oil increases in flow as the motor is running then drops to a drip when it is off.

As for the not having to pull it i did notice on pavesucks that there was a diy about it. I am almost tempted to just have them give me a new one and then do it myself b/c at this pt I don't want anyone else working on my truck ever again heh. of course I did pay them labor....hmmmm

suggestions?

 

i did mine. the hardest part was getting the f***ing starter off (3 times), because i didn't get the flexplate cover correctly hooked over the oil pan lip. i followed the pavement article except i didn't have to drop my exhaust, nor raise the engine.

be sure and retorque the mains on the crank properly.

they probably put it in backwards.

 

Alright I pulled the tc plate off to see what I could see...AND! if the rear main seal was leaking wouldnt there be oil all over the flexplate and tc not to mention at least some in the bottom of the bell housing? As there was none. So on closer examination I noticed that the oil on the plate is only from the Lside facing the motor and it looks like it came down from the oil filter......So I think this may be the problem and would make sense since wouldnt the flow of oil increase through the filter as the motor is turned over?

its a napa oil filter and it screws on but should it cover the entire oil adapter? As in I shouldn't be able to see any of the metal it screws onto?

I left the plate off to see if this was the case of course I got home and there isn't any oil! So i poured more in. I hope its just the filter b/c that would be quite an easy fix.


ps my bike tire went flat on me again! Damn nails.

 

is it on tight?

 

Make sure there aren't two filter O-rings between the filter and where you screw the filter to the engine. Sometimes the O-ring comes off the old filter and stays stuck to the engine when you pull the filter. You can put the new filter (and a new O-ring) on and not notice there are two O-rings until it starts leaking.