HO**Y C**P I need help
sounds like in the left back but its allot less now .... my tranny guy said it is deff a engine prob, that is the cause of the shaking in low rpm in every gear its like im going over small ruble strips......... anyone got some valuable input I bought a compression tester so soon ill have some results............. anyone know what psi it should be and how much diff the cylinders can be ????????????? THANKS GUYS
sounds like in the left back but its allot less now .... my tranny guy said it is deff a engine prob, that is the cause of the shaking in low rpm in every gear its like im going over small ruble strips......... anyone got some valuable input I bought a compression tester so soon ill have some results............. anyone know what psi it should be and how much diff the cylinders can be ????????????? THANKS GUYS
im too lazy to read whut you narrowed the problem to but im going to say it might be injectors or(not limited to) push rod(had a bronco with a noisey rod)
could be lots of things, hope you find it and get ur baby running like normal
could be lots of things, hope you find it and get ur baby running like normal
From Rex-TheDOGG to me, re-gifted to you.....
You will need a regular sized compressor. Something that can put out 150 psi or above.
An adapter to connect the compressor hose to the spark plug hole. NAPA and some of the better auto parts stores sell these.
Remove the passenger side valve cover. Now is a good time to check for a broken valve spring on #2 or #4. Some on this forum have mentioned this happening to them.
First find TDC @ #1. The Haynes manual has a good write-up on doing this (pg. 2A-4 in my manual). Once you have TDC @ #1, you can rotate the crank bolt clockwise (as you face it) to TDC for any piston by simply following the firing order and counting each 90 degree mark on the balancer. The main TDC mark on my balancer is cut all the way across the balancer while the 90 degree marks are cut about halfway. Check to make sure that both rockers for the cylinder are all the way up. This will be the compression stroke.
Once you have TDC @ #4 or #2 (last in firing order), install the compressor hose Q-D male end into the spark plug hole adapter, and install the adapter in hole to be tested.
Connect the hose Q-D to the adapter and crank up the pressure as high as it will go.
Listen for air escaping at the different places I told you before. If it's the dreaded crack between the valve seats, then it may be blowing out the intake, exhaust, or both. You will definitely hear it or even feel it.
Let us know what you come across.
An adapter to connect the compressor hose to the spark plug hole. NAPA and some of the better auto parts stores sell these.
Remove the passenger side valve cover. Now is a good time to check for a broken valve spring on #2 or #4. Some on this forum have mentioned this happening to them.
First find TDC @ #1. The Haynes manual has a good write-up on doing this (pg. 2A-4 in my manual). Once you have TDC @ #1, you can rotate the crank bolt clockwise (as you face it) to TDC for any piston by simply following the firing order and counting each 90 degree mark on the balancer. The main TDC mark on my balancer is cut all the way across the balancer while the 90 degree marks are cut about halfway. Check to make sure that both rockers for the cylinder are all the way up. This will be the compression stroke.
Once you have TDC @ #4 or #2 (last in firing order), install the compressor hose Q-D male end into the spark plug hole adapter, and install the adapter in hole to be tested.
Connect the hose Q-D to the adapter and crank up the pressure as high as it will go.
Listen for air escaping at the different places I told you before. If it's the dreaded crack between the valve seats, then it may be blowing out the intake, exhaust, or both. You will definitely hear it or even feel it.
Let us know what you come across.
It's not that hard. A Haynes manual and some patience not to mention time and you can handle this job with help from all us members



