ok ive been searching high and low trying to find that other spring.....some dont come stock with it? Or you thinking someone has already been in the trans before me?....the "the dropping valve body" thread is where i saw the other spring and thought i was in some trouble....Thanks

After reading that whole thread im not thinking that spring will solve 100% of the problem....I know your problem was the ecm....think mine could be too? Sometimes it will start and wont idle until you feather the throttle and slowly let off.....rev it up and it dies....other times it dont....was thinking the problem was the ecm there too.....

 

Well, I never did solve my problem, my tranny is still very cranky and probably in need of a rebuild.
For now, I'm content to tool around under 40, back and forth to work.

I don't think some trans didn't come stock with it, not positive though.
From what I have gathered, the spring in omitted during many rebuilds, for reasons I guess the tranny guys would know better than anyone.
Apparently, its either not necessary, or better without it.

Like I said, don't get your hopes up.
Expect that this won't fix a thing, that way if it does, you'll be that much happier.
Us DIY'ers are limited on how far we can go probing into trannys, though one guy at least did a DIY rebuild, and posted a comprehensive pic guide.

My ECM problem came after a series of mishaps & errors which really had nothing to do with the tranny at first.
I fried something running it with a broken alternator, then in attempting to bypass the internal voltage regulator, fried something else that sent the trans in a tail spin, so I doubt if this relates to you.
You'd for sure need a qualified electronics guy, preferably with a scan tool, to diagnose an ECM problem.

 

how do i go about changing the tcc solenoid and od solenoid and are they expensive please let me know. thanks

 

If you look at the 1st pic in this thread, which shows the valve body after the sensor housing was dropped, you'll notice what looks like a metal bracket, which the end of the harness is tied off to with wire ties.

That is where the solenoids are, the metal enclosure which houses the solenoids drops off as a unit.
You can just see both of them peeking out on the bottom.
Not sure of how much they cost, at that time I didn't replace them, but I did later on and they were included when I got a new harness, cost $70.

Bad thing is is that you have to drop the entire valve body to replace the harness, not sure about just the solenoids though, if you can get them without the harness.
I'm pretty sure the housing can be dropped without dropping the valve body, but as you can see, they are wired up to the harness, and you'd have to replicate that wiring right on the spot, under the vehicle with the harness hanging under the truck.

Probably can be done, maybe someone who has done this without dropping the valve body can confirm.
At the very least though you gotta drop the tranny pan just to access them.

 

I think the transducer and solenoid are what is ailing my '99. Dealer will have the parts tomorrow and that is when we are going to put them in. It all looks pretty straight forward, as long as we do not have to mess with the valve body we should be good. Husband hates automatics and will not deal with the valve body, he mutters something about springs and *****...

One question, we relearn the PCM after we get it back together, correct?

 

I can't remember if the VB has to be dropped or not for the tcc solenoid and od solenoid, if thats what you're referring to.
For the gov pressure, for sure it doesn't.

I always disconnect the batt when doing things such as swapping sensors, so that right there would reset the PCM.

 

Nope,changing the main harness can be done without dropping the entire valve body.If you look to the sides of the cylindrical part the plug is attached to on the side of the valve body you'll see three t-25 torx head screws.those can be accessed with an L-shaped t-25 torx wrench or a T-25 torx bit in a 1/4" socket and ratchet.If you remove those three bolts the cylindrical part of the valve body will seperate away from the main valve body,but be careful of the spring that will pop out when you remove it.

 

Sorry to be the one to tell ya, but you don't know what you are talking about, it can't be done.
The valve body must drop in order to change the internal harness, no other way.
I'm sure you'll say "oh yes it can", tell you what, do it with pics and I'll paypal you $50.

I have no idea what "cylindrical part of the valve body" you are referring to, alls taking out the 3 torx head screws will do is give you access to one of the accumulator piston/spring, thats it.
Been there & done that.

 

Now I knew someone would say "you don't know what you're talking about" or "it can't be done" because at first I thought the same thing myself,I did it yesterday.If you want me to take pictures I'll do that just give me a little while.

 

Here are the photos to removing the main wiring harness.