2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

DIY governor pressure sensor, solenoid install

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 28, 2009 | 12:44 AM
  #21  
xray99's Avatar
xray99
Thread Starter
|
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
From: MI USA
Default

Not sure what you got, once you drop the pan, take out 4 7/16th bolts & 2 torx screws, the block containing the pressure sensor & solenoid drops right out, you can't miss em.



If you feel that I made some crucial omissions in the DIY, and/or was deceptive/neglectful in any particulars, let me know and I'll correct as necessary.
As it stands, I fail to see how this can be any simpler, and I have no idea what your goal or problem is if you feel you have to tear half the trans apart to get to these readily accessible components.

I'm sure I must be missing something here as to your exact problem, I am having a tough time seeing how you can blame this DIY for it.
I read about the troubles you are having and understand your frustrations, the parts referenced here are governor pressure sensor & solenoid
 

Last edited by xray99; Apr 5, 2010 at 11:23 PM.
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #22  
Gary-L's Avatar
Gary-L
Legend
Veteran: Navy
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
Default

So this is the Governor Solenoid? The only solenoid I understood to be in the transmission is the Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid. That is my area of confusion.
 
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #23  
xray99's Avatar
xray99
Thread Starter
|
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
From: MI USA
Default

Not sure if "governor solenoid" is the proper term.
They are almost always talked about in pairs, and referred to as governor pressure sensor & solenoid.
 
Reply
Old Dec 8, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #24  
spitfireram's Avatar
spitfireram
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Default same problem...thanks

I just stopped by the transmissions shop last week and had the tech use the computer on my truck....ends up telling me the gov press sensor is failing and wrote a quote up for $1300 - $1800..crap dude your joking.....My truck is driveable, it does want to start in 2nd gear after stopping at the light...

Thank you so much for posting this...looks like it's only going to cost me around $200 to fix this myself.
 
Reply
Old Dec 8, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #25  
xray99's Avatar
xray99
Thread Starter
|
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
From: MI USA
Default

If hes talking rebuild for a failing sensor, that guy should be in jail.

Hope it works out for ya, I would advise not to get your hopes up.
Check out the internal solenoid harness while your in there for any evidence of chaffing, more than one poster
here have had their shifting problems solved by swapping a bad harness.
Of course, there may be no visible evidence that the harness is flawed, in that case either assume it is good, or do a continuity check between the harness connector at the top of the trans, and where the wires terminate at the solenoids.

Down side to that is installing a new harness is not exactly a simple task, valve body has got to drop to do it.
I recently did mine, not any fun at all. A $70 part, and tearing into a tranny like that is not for the faint of heart.

Something to keep in mind while the pan is down, I'd check the accumulator piston spring too, these are often busted, mine sure was.
 

Last edited by xray99; Dec 8, 2009 at 10:50 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 8, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #26  
DODGEIT105's Avatar
DODGEIT105
Rookie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Default

When mine went out I was told that it was the Governor Pressure Solenoid and Transducer. I was charged $400.00 to have it repaired but then again the work was guaranteed. I was also told when my was acting up that it tries to start out in 3rd gear. If you manually pull it down into 1st gear it will start in 1st then you can shift it manually back into drive once it gets moving and it will shift normally until you stop again. So if anyone else has this happen to them start out by putting it into 1st gear manually and it should work fine to get you moving.
 
Reply
Old Dec 24, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #27  
DodgeRam2500CTD's Avatar
DodgeRam2500CTD
Professional
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From:
Default

in the first post and the first pic it has the tranducer....correct? anyway that wire harness runs across the pic......and it goes up above the valve body?.....i need to replace that and have it all loose but i cant get to that big plug to unhook it and install the new one which is above the valve body.......im guessing i have to take the valve body off? is that a real chore or am i goin about this the wrong way?....i need help before i get into something i dont wanna be in
 
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2009 | 12:15 AM
  #28  
xray99's Avatar
xray99
Thread Starter
|
Banned
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
From: MI USA
Default

To get the solenoid harness out, you do have to drop the valve body.
Sad, but true - No way around it, as you'll see once its off. The top of the connector is screwed into the valve body.
Heres a view from the top of the VB



Dropping the VB is not too bad, not exactly a piece of cake though.
You'll first have to disconnect the throttle & gearshift linkage, which in itself can be a pain in the ***.
From there start taking bolts out of the VB, before you do that, do yourself a huge favor and get a piece of cardboard - Make marks that correspond to the bolt pattern on the VB, a dozen or so.
Theres 3 different sizes, don't want to get them mixed up, so put them in the cardboard as you take them out.
When it loosens up, expect a little tranny fluid flood, might want to let it drain a bit before taking them all out.
Expect at least 1 spring to pop out, maybe 2, along with a plastic cylinder.
You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to unhook a retaining ring from a parking sprog, then it'll drop right down - Be advised, once all the bolts are out and it still feels like somethings keeping it in, its just suction from the harness connector, just jiggle it around a bit and apply downwards pressure and it'll break free.

Check this thread
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...alve-body.html

And the first part of this
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...with-pics.html

For more info.
 

Last edited by xray99; Apr 5, 2010 at 11:24 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #29  
Augiedoggy's Avatar
Augiedoggy
Champion
15 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,015
Likes: 8
From: Western NY,
Default

wished I would have seen the is when I replaced the soleniod,sensor filter and fluid the day after I bought mine cause it decided it didnt want to shift out of 2nd....btw lets not forget there are a few codes that tell you when these have failed...I used the manual from here to do mine...a lot more confusingf than this diy
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 03:29 AM
  #30  
DodgeRam2500CTD's Avatar
DodgeRam2500CTD
Professional
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From:
Default

Ok....transducer is replaced and the sylenoid with the cover holding it in (the one on the right in post 21 with the white plug).....it now has first gear again and i can shift with the shifter.....before it only had 3rd gear.....was throwing code p1757.....now no codes.....the 2nd to 3rd shift is funky....the truck slows down if i hold constant throttle at about 30-35 mph....slow down to about 15 mph and the truck just shudders (shifting back and forth real fast) until you pull the shifter down to first....i ran out of atf but it is at the add mark....shouldnt be low enough to cause this.....just wondering if i replaced the wrong sylenoid....or if I should replace the one right next to it too to solve the problem....?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:37 PM.