That makes no sense. If they haven't got a fan to match the stock V10 fan then that tells me there's something screwy with the way they figure CFM. I mean, how much more air could the V10 fan move over the 5.9? I'm guessing they just don't want to deal with the V10/diesel crowd because many of those owners tow and that could push them beyond the capabilities of an electric fan.

 

There is a V10/diesel electric fan setup.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/262-diesel.html
Notice the brackets to remount the factory plastic containers. It's a beautiful thing.
And it moves 5500 cfm!

 

Costs over $500! Not so beautiful in my book.

EDIT: I don't see any mention of the V10 in the description. And only 6% mileage increase? That might be good for a diesel, but on a V10 that averages 10mpg it isn't worth the cost.

 

If my truck was as nice as yours, it would be worth the $550.
But, I don't need that much cooling, and various other reasons, so I can't justify it for my truck, but I wish I could!

 

You hit the nail on the head. Believe I saw on the diesel fan posted above that it's not recommended when the cgvw exceeds 18,000lbs.

I don't plan on testing anything from Flex-o-lite right away do to the expense. Want to start at the bottom of the price tier and work my way up. Hoping after 2-3 fans I'll hit on the right set up.

I will say this, HUGE amount of resentment in the industry about competitors. Have one company that won't name names, but swears they have tested a competitors fan that won't move ANY airflow at .6" s.p. Gut feeling I know who it is...but not naming names...yet...lol. Besides, thinking our radiator/trans cooler/ac coils will be about a .3" S.P.

EDIT...that was where I saw it, clicked on the link and: "Electric fans are not recommended for primary diesel engine cooling when the combined gross vehicle weight (CGVW) exceeds 18,000 pounds (truck, trailer and load)"

 

hutch just a question for ya here.

In that other thread I mentioned the 3500 cfm or whatever deal. This experiment is to prove that wrong. However you mention that in summer high degree heat things could change.

Before the question let me say...
I know nothing about this stuff so bear with me on my stupid questions

Is it at all possible they give that high of number to make up for the extreme summer temps in some areas?

 

I've seen the 3500 cfm spec thrown around on a few electric fan threads. Assuming it's been going on for awhile but I haven't paid any real attention to them until I started thinking of putting a fan on. When I started looking at fans, I noticed they were all rated @ 0 s.p. I know, and I only know this because of my career choice, that it's not a real number. My hope with this thread is not to prove anyone wrong, I just want to show people what the truth is. The industry knows it's fake.

Here's a quick sample of that. Email correspondence from a manufacturer. I x'd out the manufacturer name for the time being. Go to the bottom first and read my initial question, what's immediately below is the reply.


"Mike,



Yes on both. The fans are tested across the board, we could care less what they do at 0 sp but its important they operate behind or in front of a radiator in a wide range of environmental conditions. 0 static pressure is simply the highest achievable number used for advertising claims, an established practice that as you obviously know is deceiving. If we were to publish test results in the 0.3-0.6 range fans typically operate, nobody would buy the fans. As it is now, most (almost all) of our competitors fudge their figures anyway. The data they claim is created by the marketing department, rather than R & D/Engineering. Many don’t have these departments but simply import prepackaged product from overseas and claim whatever they feel they need to in order to sell the product. Unfortunately testing is fairly expensive, so we have not tested all of our competitors products.



Our fans are typically advertised with lower ratings than others, plus at higher amperage loads. Pulling big cfm numbers requires well designed blades motivated by strong motors. This requires electricity. We see claims of up to 3000 cfm (again at 0 sp) for standard 16” curved blade fans that miraculously use 9-13 amps (vs ours using almost 20). Our own testing of these typically show true numbers that are between 1300-1700 at 0 sp for the value priced brands and 1500-2200 for more expensive names. Regardless, most of them drop off the table as static pressure loads increase to real-world levels. A very well known competitor sells a large number of 16” fans which pull almost no air at all at 0.6 sp. 0.6 would represent a thick, 4 core, tight fin-pitch radiator on a very humid day. An example of real world conditions, (our 16516) us vs. them: 0.3 sp – 1650 vs. 1210, .4 sp 1495 vs. 880, .5 sp 1290 vs. 595, .6 sp 920 vs. 125. These numbers are rounded, plus keep in mind there are slight variations from fan to fan. But they are consistent and vary by only a few percentage points either way.



Do you have a specific part you are interested in knowing about? Let us know and we will answer as best as possible.



Thank you,



xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: hutch1973@msn.com [mailto:hutch1973@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 6:29 PM
To: xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: electric fans



Are all your electric fans tested at '0' static pressure, or do you have specs that would resemble actual performance in a vehicle?





Mike

 

And for anyone following this, you can't ask a question I would consider stupid. I'm only trying to pass on what I know. I'm doing this testing using 8 grand worth of specialized equipment, and it's the only way to measure this stuff. I understand how this has happened (false advertising.)

Blue, didn't really answer all of your question, but basically this...any fan number at 0 s.p is fake, and you can never get that airflow. In summer, high heat/humidity, fan airflow actually drops. Give me a day or two, end of the weekend at the latest, and I'll post on here a more detailed explanation on s.p. readings and fan performance. I'm struggling with trying to put it into a format that just makes sense. I only know this crap because I have to, and i learned it over years of hands on experience. To read it in a book would have gotten me no where, so trying to figure out a way to pass it on to everyone and make it simple to understand.

Hopefully everyone understands a major manufacturer has published info saying 2100 cfm is the required airflow amount. What I DON'T want people to do is run out and buy a fan rated at 2100 cfm @ 0 s.p. because I know that fan won't move 2100 cfm of air. Now trying to determine what fan will.

 

are you going to just be testin aftermarket fans or will you be testing any junkyard ones also?

 

Strictly after market, and I'm hoping to only test 2 or 3 to find the right combo. Going to resell the ones I don't care for after the fact on ebay and probably lose 20-40 a pop, so I'm not going to try to hit every fan on the market.