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DIY Thermostat Install
#12
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
Posts: 7,055
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when i did mine i didn't think of leaving the hose attached, thats a good idea. and i like your work bench in the last pic. i just climb up on the brush guard and sit on the cross member in front of the radiator. i'm eventually going to make a bench that i can set on the shock towers and the brush guard but that'll be some time down the road. i was telling a friend of mine the other day that has a lift that he ought to take a reinforced piece of plywood and lay it on the arms for the lift so he can raise it just above the engine and lay on it to mess with the engine, but all his trucks sit a couple feet above stock.
#14
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i do, may not be necessary, but peace of mind
i didn't
i didn't
#15
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You all prove my statement about the many different methods to change out a simple component.
Sure leaving the alternator on might make things cramped, but the way I do it, you should be in and out in either 2 15min sessions, or about 25-30 min. That's including time taken to grind off that tab.
Oh and sheriff, I took that idea from a picture I saw running around here quite awhile back..... lifted up 2500 CTD, with a Ford Ranger backed all the way up to the front bumper. That allowed who ever was working on it to get in the bed of the ranger, and allowed him to reach the engine bay.
Sure leaving the alternator on might make things cramped, but the way I do it, you should be in and out in either 2 15min sessions, or about 25-30 min. That's including time taken to grind off that tab.
Oh and sheriff, I took that idea from a picture I saw running around here quite awhile back..... lifted up 2500 CTD, with a Ford Ranger backed all the way up to the front bumper. That allowed who ever was working on it to get in the bed of the ranger, and allowed him to reach the engine bay.
#16
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You all prove my statement about the many different methods to change out a simple component.
Sure leaving the alternator on might make things cramped, but the way I do it, you should be in and out in either 2 15min sessions, or about 25-30 min. That's including time taken to grind off that tab.
Oh and sheriff, I took that idea from a picture I saw running around here quite awhile back..... lifted up 2500 CTD, with a Ford Ranger backed all the way up to the front bumper. That allowed who ever was working on it to get in the bed of the ranger, and allowed him to reach the engine bay.
Sure leaving the alternator on might make things cramped, but the way I do it, you should be in and out in either 2 15min sessions, or about 25-30 min. That's including time taken to grind off that tab.
Oh and sheriff, I took that idea from a picture I saw running around here quite awhile back..... lifted up 2500 CTD, with a Ford Ranger backed all the way up to the front bumper. That allowed who ever was working on it to get in the bed of the ranger, and allowed him to reach the engine bay.
The reality is that it is a poor design to have it sit where it does. They could have make it more accessible. Much like the silly distributor location!
#17
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well on the durangos with the 5.9 and 5.2 the dist. is easy to get to, its just the way the firewall was made. but, its also just as easy to remove the a/c compressor, and start to finish takes aroudn 30 mins. that was including dropping the lower rad. hose. and it keeps everything up top from getting drenched. when i do my therm, (next few weeks) ill take some pics of how i do it, our methods dont differ to much, other than where you just use an extension to go right at the housing, i unbol;t the compressor and move it out of the way, and since i dont have CC, i just unhook my throttle cable, and the undo the hose clamp, move the hose, then unbolt and remove the housing, and clean evcerything up, dry it out, then install the new therm, and install is reverse of removal. simple enough right?