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Where did my low end go?

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  #31  
Old 06-15-2009, 09:59 PM
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when i installed my 14x3, it seemed to help more past 2500 rpm, except when im towing, then the truck seems to pull much better from just above idle, but anything is better than the stock block of an intake

also when i redid my exhaust, i remove a ton of restriction by ending the system earlier, and going to a full 2.5 inch system after the Y pipe, and that also seemed to boost performance
 
  #32  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:46 PM
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14x3 cleaner does drop low end torque, not just the exhaust. Your flooding the engine with all of that air that cant be used as efficiently with the keg style inlet. Air to fuel ratio is off. I had the same problem until i put my sct tune back on . Still feels like a little loss at the low end but i can smoke em and such. Also, i pull hard ***** after 2500
 
  #33  
Old 06-16-2009, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CSXfan
What should I be looking for when I unplug it?
I apologize, I wasn't meaning that as a test to see if it was partially at fault for your loss of low end.

I presented it as a test to show that yes, the MAP sensor can affect your power.

If you look at the Service Manual off of the Merry Christmas thread or the Haynes manual for our trucks, one of them (I think it was the Haynes) will give you the test procedures for the MAP.
 
  #34  
Old 06-16-2009, 10:21 AM
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Haynes has the test procedure for all the engine sensors.
 
  #35  
Old 06-16-2009, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Miami_Son
"Here's the combo, previous bolt-on mods first. 50mm F&B throttle body, K&N round filter with Xtreme-style lid, Mopar plug wires/Accel coil/NGK plugs. Magnaflow 3" high flow cat/Dynomax 3" ultra-flow muffler. We just installed a set of used, unported 1.92 Mopar Performance R/T heads with a fresh valve job/seals, etc, used Crower 1.6 rockers, March steel underdrive crank pulley, Edelbrock shorty headers (still using factory y-pipe with pre-cats. Factory kegger intake, not modified, with Hughes billet plenum plate. Dyno tuned with an SCT controller."

I don't think I'd call all of that cheap OR easy.
I was just thinking he could do the cam without the other mods (heads, programmer, etc). No bigger than the cam is he could probably get away with using his Superchips, instead of the SCT. He wouldn't get as good results, but I bet it would be a lot stronger than it is now. Not to mention a lot cheaper than gears (as long as he does the work himself)! But like you said, this wouldn't be very easy so I guess this is a bad suggestion!!
 

Last edited by trucklover; 06-16-2009 at 11:46 AM.
  #36  
Old 06-16-2009, 05:59 PM
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now, this is weird, on the kenworth, it has a 5 inch factory exhaust system, and it seemed to pull better when i removed the muffler, not to mention sounded so cool
although it don't have a real problem at 380 HP
 
  #37  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonw
I apologize, I wasn't meaning that as a test to see if it was partially at fault for your loss of low end.

I presented it as a test to show that yes, the MAP sensor can affect your power.

If you look at the Service Manual off of the Merry Christmas thread or the Haynes manual for our trucks, one of them (I think it was the Haynes) will give you the test procedures for the MAP.
Ah I see, no problem. I'll test it when I get my truck back next Wednesday (its in the body shop for some rust repair)

How difficult is a cam replacement? Doesn't that require ripping down the entire top half of the engine? What would I be looking at cost wise? (not that it really matters, I have no money for this stuff anyway)
 
  #38  
Old 06-17-2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mowhawk
Also, i pull hard ***** after 2500

You should get that checked out.
 
  #39  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CSXfan
Ah I see, no problem. I'll test it when I get my truck back next Wednesday (its in the body shop for some rust repair)

How difficult is a cam replacement? Doesn't that require ripping down the entire top half of the engine? What would I be looking at cost wise? (not that it really matters, I have no money for this stuff anyway)
I have no idea cost wise, but to physically replace the cam (pull old out and put new in) is a snap as long as your careful not to nick your bearings . And yes it does involve tearing down the top half of th engine.
 

Last edited by pcfixerpro; 06-17-2009 at 11:11 AM.
  #40  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:32 AM
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I agree that removing/replacing a cam is not that difficult. It's all the work you have to do to get to it that is a chore and requires some expertise. Basically, it is a lot of work and expensive if you have to pay someone to do it.
 



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